Gasherbrum IV Additions and Corrections

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Damien Gildea

Damien Gildea - Mar 11, 2009 8:15 am - Hasn't voted


You have Kurtyka/Schauer for "1994 & 1995" but they did their climb in 1985.

Bonatti 1958 route is NE ridge, not N.

Spanish 2008 did not go to main summit, as originally reported.



Corax - Mar 11, 2009 10:24 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Corrections

Thanks Damien. Corrected.


eza - Mar 17, 2009 6:42 am - Voted 10/10

Just a minor detail...

the 2008 spanish climber name is Miguel Zabalza (not "Zabalaza") ;)


Corax - Mar 18, 2009 10:52 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Just a minor detail...

Thanks for the info. I will change it right now!


Baarb - Nov 24, 2009 1:27 am - Voted 10/10

More ascent info?

Appears to be a couple more climbs (1997, 1999) listed on the Wikipedia page which largely references Alpinist Newswire. The coordinates seem to be a little off too, at least vs. the Google base-map. The Gasherbrum I page appears to also need as per this page: "Contrary to general belief Gasherbrum doesn't mean "shining wall". The name comes from the Balti words rgasha, which means beautiful and brum which means mountain."


Corax - Nov 24, 2009 12:42 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: More ascent info?

Coordinates corrected. Info Source: High Asia 5700/500 list, by Jurgalski and de Ferranti. 35°45'45" 76°36'57" Converted to decimal.
The missing Korean ascents added.
I also changed the info on the GI page. I was one of those which believed Gasherbrum meant shining wall, but was later taught that wasn't the case. I had forgotten to change that on the GI page.

Philat98 - Aug 21, 2018 11:57 am - Hasn't voted

Bonatti's account of climbing G4 in 1954

Solferino have published a new book (2018) by Bonatti La Montagna Scintillante that tells the story of the ascent of G4 in 1958.


Corax - Aug 23, 2018 8:15 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Bonatti's account of climbing G4 in 1954

Very interesting. Thanks for this info. I may looking for this book myself :)

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