The ten foot slab crux of the traverse, is well beyong "Class III" in my opinion due to the lack of hand and footholds, in combination with the steepness of the pitch making the smearing option a tough climbing move for all but the tallest climbers that can reach the upper edge of the slab with their hands.
I found an alternate way around this move, by heading east from the orange arrow about six feet and up a series of small solid rock shelves that I mantled and then proceeded aroung a small gendarme around the east side where passage to the top of the ten foot slab is gained thru a break in the ridge. This is still a serious "Class IV" move with significant exposure to the drop to Arapahoe Glacier well below. It is one of the hardest moves I would make when soloing (in dry conditions, only).
I think it was not so bad, but I do love rock climbing. Had to even lift up my dog, and she did great. However, would not recommend to take a pet on this route.
andrewlryder - Sep 29, 2022 9:25 am - Hasn't voted
Options
The crux is like, 2 moves of low-angle slab climbing with limited exposure; if you have any climbing experience you likely won't think twice about it. There are footholds, don't worry if you're not tall.
Overall there is not much difficult scrambling on the easiest route, lots of class 2 and easy class 3, but the position is nice and much of the rock is good. There is extra fun to be had if you want it.
ColoradoScott - Aug 31, 2006 5:40 pm - Hasn't voted
Crux AlternativeThe ten foot slab crux of the traverse, is well beyong "Class III" in my opinion due to the lack of hand and footholds, in combination with the steepness of the pitch making the smearing option a tough climbing move for all but the tallest climbers that can reach the upper edge of the slab with their hands.
I found an alternate way around this move, by heading east from the orange arrow about six feet and up a series of small solid rock shelves that I mantled and then proceeded aroung a small gendarme around the east side where passage to the top of the ten foot slab is gained thru a break in the ridge. This is still a serious "Class IV" move with significant exposure to the drop to Arapahoe Glacier well below. It is one of the hardest moves I would make when soloing (in dry conditions, only).
Liba Kopeckova - Jul 17, 2012 9:03 am - Voted 10/10
Re: Crux AlternativeI think it was not so bad, but I do love rock climbing. Had to even lift up my dog, and she did great. However, would not recommend to take a pet on this route.
andrewlryder - Sep 29, 2022 9:25 am - Hasn't voted
OptionsThe crux is like, 2 moves of low-angle slab climbing with limited exposure; if you have any climbing experience you likely won't think twice about it. There are footholds, don't worry if you're not tall.
Overall there is not much difficult scrambling on the easiest route, lots of class 2 and easy class 3, but the position is nice and much of the rock is good. There is extra fun to be had if you want it.