I climbed Arete des Cosmiques on 20th of August 2002. Please note down the following :
1.After the gendarm (3.731m) you continue for a little while the ridge and then you abseil down twice. There are two abseil rings, slings etc.Each abseil is about 10 - 15 m.
2.The key passage was well equipped. There were rope ladders & sling. After the key passage you reach a bolt (there is another one above but is unscrewed), then continue 3 -4 meters right, approximately 10 meters up (the first 3/4 is an easy narrow passage)and then left.
The passage of 4+ has a large ring bolt about 2m up it to aid the hardest move, this means the route can be done at 3+ (UIAA)
The cosmic arête is mostly graded (by most of the guide books), as PD/PD+ .
The grade IV rock section is very short one just a couple of moves.
The route shouldn’t be underestimated but then its not difficult, relatively safe, and nice and short route for acclimatization and introduction to the area.
Here's a terrific seven minutes of explanation and view of climbing the Cosmique in the winter. Best thing of doing it in winter is you have the entire spectacular climb to yourself!
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