The Summit Block Additions and Corrections

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PellucidWombat - Jul 20, 2010 6:59 pm - Voted 10/10

A few notes on aiding the summit block

Lassoing the block
It is easiest to have only one person toss the rope while the other person holds a pre-coiled end to feed out. The better option is for the tosser to climb up high on a fin to the right (east) of the summit block and toss from there. To help get the rope over, droop some initial rope between the fin and the summit block. Tossing less rope is better than tossing more as the greater weight is difficult to get to clear the block.

The Notch
There is a 'ridge' on the backside of the summit block that you cannot see. It has a small notch in it that catches the rope as you pull it up. This sets the rope nicely for aiding and helps a lot to prevent the rope from slipping up and over the top.

Aiding up the block
There are some nice foot/hand holds on the left side of the crest that you aid up near. As the rope tends to cause you to swing to the right, using these holds helps hold you in line. I found it workable to just attach a ti-b lock above the 'step across' corner, and pull on it to move up the rope while mostly climbing along the left crest.

Also, you can attach the prussic or ti-block to the rope after it has been tossed and secured.


SKI - Aug 5, 2010 9:44 pm - Hasn't voted

For those who don't mind a spoiler...

This is a youtube of Glenn Gookin leading the sucker, video by Tom Becht.

Mark M

Mark M - Aug 5, 2013 9:36 pm - Hasn't voted

Using Prusiks

This is the method cab and I used to climb the summit block. It worked really well and is quick to set up if you have your prusiks already made (or use ascenders)


    Click Image to Enlarge

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