July 2014. When dry (!) this beautiful and fun route is only 4th class with occasional lower 5th moves. Admittedly a significant portions of locals seem to using ropes namely for down-climbing however a competent climber can easily free climb this route. The route can see a lot of traffic so waits and traffic jams are not uncommon. The center of each chimney however can easily climbed around, avoiding the crowds. 100% snow free early July 2014 car to summit.
Overall timing with an early start from the high car park should be less than 6-8 hours round-trip so can definitely be done in a day without the need to stay at the (rather old and crowded) hut.
Rafa Bartolome - May 6, 2003 3:11 am - Hasn't voted
Route Comment-Chimney 1: 15 metres, grade II. Goods handles. Rope is necessary for descent (to your election in climb but if you've the rope is better the use).
-Chimney 2: 20 metres, grade II. A little more hard. Rope is advisable for climb and for descent.
-Chimney 3: easy, grade I.
The signal of Portillon after the chimneys show the way.
wschueller - Aug 10, 2014 6:48 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentJuly 2014. When dry (!) this beautiful and fun route is only 4th class with occasional lower 5th moves. Admittedly a significant portions of locals seem to using ropes namely for down-climbing however a competent climber can easily free climb this route. The route can see a lot of traffic so waits and traffic jams are not uncommon. The center of each chimney however can easily climbed around, avoiding the crowds. 100% snow free early July 2014 car to summit.
Overall timing with an early start from the high car park should be less than 6-8 hours round-trip so can definitely be done in a day without the need to stay at the (rather old and crowded) hut.