Climbed BCS last summer via NE ridge. Would have been easier to summit if traverse south had been made prior to meeting N arete at the ridge top. My recommendation is to to traverse South about 300 feet below the summit ridge and meet the summit without accessing the summit ridge until the end. Any questions feel free to email me. Otherwise a very cool climb. ZCANDO@COX.NET
I must say you nailed it right on the nose. I would like to add that if for some reason you decide to let your pack fall down to the snowy slope 300 ft below you, make sure you don't have your rappelling rope in it. Its kind of hard to rappel when your rope is already at the bottom of the mountain! Sound familiar ZCANDO??
Except it isn't class 4 if you cut up to the ridge - just pointing that out Eric. And no doubt not the way Norman Clyde did the solo first ascent either.
I tended to stay closer to the North Arete and even talked to climbers on it. I even went right of the tower and ended up gaining the upper North Arete a hundred meters or so before the summit. It was really enjoyable climbing the whole way. If you're OK with the exposure, there aren't any hard moves. There are so many options on this route. I often opted for easy 5th class climbing just for adventure and encountered no loose or unstable rock. Where the climbers were rappelling from the summit, I downclimed to a 30' offwidth, which I then downclimbed in running shorts. Not a lot of fun, but a challenge to do it in good style.
I had to park about a half mile from the trailhead, due to so much traffic. 7 hours, 4,000' vertical, 12 miles.
Can anyone compare this to Ulrich‘s route? My climbing partner and I were up there this weekend I thought we were doing this route and he thought we were doing Ulrichs route. We did Ulrichs which i thought was really dirty and a bit loose. The last 50 to 100 feet I would be comfortable repelling but was harder than I thought it was going to be going up. I’d like to go back and do this route but wanted to comparison.
zcando - Oct 16, 2002 10:16 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentClimbed BCS last summer via NE ridge. Would have been easier to summit if traverse south had been made prior to meeting N arete at the ridge top. My recommendation is to to traverse South about 300 feet below the summit ridge and meet the summit without accessing the summit ridge until the end. Any questions feel free to email me. Otherwise a very cool climb. ZCANDO@COX.NET
Craig Peer - Oct 16, 2002 11:45 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentThis is what I was trying to say, and I totally agree.
astroman - Oct 18, 2002 9:05 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentI must say you nailed it right on the nose. I would like to add that if for some reason you decide to let your pack fall down to the snowy slope 300 ft below you, make sure you don't have your rappelling rope in it. Its kind of hard to rappel when your rope is already at the bottom of the mountain! Sound familiar ZCANDO??
other than that, its a beautiful climb!
zcando - Oct 22, 2002 10:27 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentWho dropped the pack?
Craig Peer - Aug 3, 2005 5:14 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentExcept it isn't class 4 if you cut up to the ridge - just pointing that out Eric. And no doubt not the way Norman Clyde did the solo first ascent either.
Eric O - Aug 11, 2005 11:26 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentHmm... if there isn't an alternative to that one layback/hand/fist crack in that corner, then you're right! Thanks, Craig.
midi510 - Aug 18, 2019 10:17 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Route CommentI tended to stay closer to the North Arete and even talked to climbers on it. I even went right of the tower and ended up gaining the upper North Arete a hundred meters or so before the summit. It was really enjoyable climbing the whole way. If you're OK with the exposure, there aren't any hard moves. There are so many options on this route. I often opted for easy 5th class climbing just for adventure and encountered no loose or unstable rock. Where the climbers were rappelling from the summit, I downclimed to a 30' offwidth, which I then downclimbed in running shorts. Not a lot of fun, but a challenge to do it in good style.
I had to park about a half mile from the trailhead, due to so much traffic. 7 hours, 4,000' vertical, 12 miles.
jenrau - Jul 24, 2022 1:24 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Route CommentCan anyone compare this to Ulrich‘s route? My climbing partner and I were up there this weekend I thought we were doing this route and he thought we were doing Ulrichs route. We did Ulrichs which i thought was really dirty and a bit loose. The last 50 to 100 feet I would be comfortable repelling but was harder than I thought it was going to be going up. I’d like to go back and do this route but wanted to comparison.