Agreed about the variation on the last pitch. I started up the chimney in approach shoes and it was totally insecure and scary. I down climbed and tried the flakes to the right, which were fun and easy. Should have read this page before climbing the route.
I've climbed this route twice now, once using the higher, left ramp of pitch 5, and once using the lower right ramp. I definitely recommend the left ramp as the belay ledge and anchor placement options felt much more comfortable and secure. I didn't take a picture of it myself, but you can see the comfy ledge with tree here (5th pic from top): http://brianbiancardi.weebly.com/cosmic-wallbizz-johnson-marathon-link-up.html
NorCalNomad - Jun 26, 2019 10:41 am - Hasn't voted
Midway Rap Station
You no longer have to rap off a tat nest at the tree. There are nice bolts and chains for rapping off. No need to bring a second 60m rope, one 60m will do just fine.
MichaelJ - Aug 16, 2008 12:56 pm - Hasn't voted
skip the chimneyAgreed about the variation on the last pitch. I started up the chimney in approach shoes and it was totally insecure and scary. I down climbed and tried the flakes to the right, which were fun and easy. Should have read this page before climbing the route.
olsztynr - Oct 12, 2015 2:38 pm - Voted 7/10
Left ramp on pitch 5I've climbed this route twice now, once using the higher, left ramp of pitch 5, and once using the lower right ramp. I definitely recommend the left ramp as the belay ledge and anchor placement options felt much more comfortable and secure. I didn't take a picture of it myself, but you can see the comfy ledge with tree here (5th pic from top): http://brianbiancardi.weebly.com/cosmic-wallbizz-johnson-marathon-link-up.html
NorCalNomad - Jun 26, 2019 10:41 am - Hasn't voted
Midway Rap StationYou no longer have to rap off a tat nest at the tree. There are nice bolts and chains for rapping off. No need to bring a second 60m rope, one 60m will do just fine.