Seems like last time I climbed the 5.8 route at this wall, the piton anchors were replaced. Both the 5.9 and the 10d also have good anchors at the top.
The drilled angles at the top of The Poodle Bites can now be backed up by clipping the first bolt of "Overbight" a 3-bolt 5.6 continuing up the arete to the top of the wall. Two 1/2" x 4" double-wedge stainless bolts are at the top. Scramble off the back side.
To the right of Overbight is "Short Leash" a 5.9 face climb 1 bolt plus 0.75 camalot.
ExploreABitMore - Nov 14, 2006 9:51 pm - Voted 10/10
AnchorsSeems like last time I climbed the 5.8 route at this wall, the piton anchors were replaced. Both the 5.9 and the 10d also have good anchors at the top.
brutus of wyde - Dec 4, 2007 7:53 pm - Voted 10/10
Pitons and proThe drilled pitons were still the anchor at the top of Poodle Bites as of 17 November 2007.
Poodle Bites can be adequately protected with the placement of a few Alien Hybrids where the bolts are further apart.
Brutus
brutus of wyde - Apr 2, 2008 12:37 am - Voted 10/10
UpdateThe drilled angles at the top of The Poodle Bites can now be backed up by clipping the first bolt of "Overbight" a 3-bolt 5.6 continuing up the arete to the top of the wall. Two 1/2" x 4" double-wedge stainless bolts are at the top. Scramble off the back side.
To the right of Overbight is "Short Leash" a 5.9 face climb 1 bolt plus 0.75 camalot.
Cheers,
Brutus