Fred Beckey's name is associated with many first ascents in the Sierra High Country. In the early 1970s, a few groups of climbers, including Galen Rowell, Beckey and various companions began exploring the Tuttle Creek drainage out of Lone Pine, California. In the style of the period, most of these ascents were made using a combination of free and aid techniques. Beckey's first ascent of the Direct South Face of Lone Pine Peak (erroneously called the easiest Grade V in the United States) was made in May of 1970.
On the approach to this climb, the Red Baron is visible as a high-angle tower far up the canyon.
Two years after the ascent of the Direct South Face, Fred returned to the area with Barry Hagen and made the long, arduous approach to Red Baron Tower. After working through the fearsome overhangs and steep dihedrals low on the route, the pair found continuously interesting free climbing to the summit.
For many years, this climb remained unrepeated. The easier approach to longer routes in the drainage doubtless was a factor, as was Steve Roper's "Climber's Guide to the High Sierras" which described the descent as a series of rappels -- an unsavory prospect. And why spend a full day hiking upcanyon when the luxurious shelter of Stonehouse was available for the climbs in the lower canyon? Regardless, any free attempt on the tower would require intimidating climbing through the roofs guarding the first few pitches.
In July, 1995 Pat Brennan and I, having climbed many of the routes in the lower drainage, wandered upcanyon to establish the beautiful Zig-Zag Dihedral route on the south face of Peak 12,960+. During this ascent, we had the opportunity to study the Red Baron Tower.
What we saw convinced us that a free attempt was warranted. The next summer found us again camped beside the stream near the base of the climb. The following day we were to discover that the entry overhangs went free at a casual 5.8. The next section, however, gave each of us pause: A few very large, loose flakes on the route (some of which we trundled) were evidence that we were among a handful of climbers who had ever ventured there. Incredibly steep, surprisingly solid rock, brushy hairline cracks and difficult climbing eventually brought us to the upper pitches, which we expected to ease back into fairly mellow climbing.
What we found instead was cracks in the 5.7-5.9 range, only slightly easier than the sections Beckey and Hagen had aided. Conscious of having spent more time on the upper pitches than we had expected, we spent little time on the summit, pausing only long enough to finish the last of our water before searching for a descent.
Returning to camp that evening, we rested in a flat meadow, next to a bubbling stream, and looked back up at the steep, sustained dihedral. It was then that we realized we had just been treated to one of the finer routes in the southern Sierras.
brutus of wyde - Dec 30, 2005 3:28 am - Hasn't voted
Route Comment"From the Stone House, going cross-country, contour along the north side of the canyon"
Don't you mean the south side of the canyon?
Cheers, and thanks for posting these two routes!
Brutus
brutus of wyde - Jan 8, 2006 7:18 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentRed Baron Tower
Fred Beckey's name is associated with many first ascents in the Sierra High Country. In the early 1970s, a few groups of climbers, including Galen Rowell, Beckey and various companions began exploring the Tuttle Creek drainage out of Lone Pine, California. In the style of the period, most of these ascents were made using a combination of free and aid techniques. Beckey's first ascent of the Direct South Face of Lone Pine Peak (erroneously called the easiest Grade V in the United States) was made in May of 1970.
On the approach to this climb, the Red Baron is visible as a high-angle tower far up the canyon.
Two years after the ascent of the Direct South Face, Fred returned to the area with Barry Hagen and made the long, arduous approach to Red Baron Tower. After working through the fearsome overhangs and steep dihedrals low on the route, the pair found continuously interesting free climbing to the summit.
For many years, this climb remained unrepeated. The easier approach to longer routes in the drainage doubtless was a factor, as was Steve Roper's "Climber's Guide to the High Sierras" which described the descent as a series of rappels -- an unsavory prospect. And why spend a full day hiking upcanyon when the luxurious shelter of Stonehouse was available for the climbs in the lower canyon? Regardless, any free attempt on the tower would require intimidating climbing through the roofs guarding the first few pitches.
In July, 1995 Pat Brennan and I, having climbed many of the routes in the lower drainage, wandered upcanyon to establish the beautiful Zig-Zag Dihedral route on the south face of Peak 12,960+. During this ascent, we had the opportunity to study the Red Baron Tower.
What we saw convinced us that a free attempt was warranted. The next summer found us again camped beside the stream near the base of the climb. The following day we were to discover that the entry overhangs went free at a casual 5.8. The next section, however, gave each of us pause: A few very large, loose flakes on the route (some of which we trundled) were evidence that we were among a handful of climbers who had ever ventured there. Incredibly steep, surprisingly solid rock, brushy hairline cracks and difficult climbing eventually brought us to the upper pitches, which we expected to ease back into fairly mellow climbing.
What we found instead was cracks in the 5.7-5.9 range, only slightly easier than the sections Beckey and Hagen had aided. Conscious of having spent more time on the upper pitches than we had expected, we spent little time on the summit, pausing only long enough to finish the last of our water before searching for a descent.
Returning to camp that evening, we rested in a flat meadow, next to a bubbling stream, and looked back up at the steep, sustained dihedral. It was then that we realized we had just been treated to one of the finer routes in the southern Sierras.