Torment-Forbidden Traverse Additions and Corrections

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Buckaroo

Buckaroo - Sep 4, 2012 4:32 pm - Hasn't voted

Rope Length

"" If climbing roped, a 50m rope is more than sufficient.""

Just a word of caution. The normal SW face descent off Torment involves 4 to 8 30m rappels. If you are going to bail off this route this is one of the few places to do so.

olsztynr - Jul 16, 2023 2:05 pm - Hasn't voted

Rope length

"If climbing roped, a 50m rope is more than sufficient.""
To add to the above comment - we made many rope-stretching rappels with a 60m rope, including rapping to grassy ledges on south side (steep snow bypass), and through cat-scratch gully descent. I think anything less than 60m rope is ill-advised.

Steve Larson

Steve Larson - Jul 16, 2023 9:29 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Rope length

Thanks for the additional information. We did not take that route on the descent, so had no first-hand beta to offer. Hopefully this will help others who do this route in the future avoid a potentially challenging and dangerous situation.

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