Saint John's Ledges, 5.2-5.10 Additions and Corrections

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cliff_hanger - Jan 12, 2007 10:57 pm - Hasn't voted

St. John's Lower

Back in the 1980's there was a climbing shop around Hartford called "Clapp & Treat". This shop had a "new route book" and the text below shows St. John's Ledges routes that I copied form that book:

Lower Cliff Area

Little Jewel 5.10 **
FA: Ken Nichols 8/85
Start at the clean face midway bewteen two easy crack systems. Face climb up to the thin straight seam that leads to the top. The seam can be protected with a #3 stopper. Looks like this is sometims called "The Graduate"

Triple X 5.10
FA: Alex Catlin, Scott Morse
Deft layback moves lead up the face exactly midway between "Little Jewel and the step and staircase of "Easy Route"

When I get a chance, I'll post descriptions for "Meteor Shower", "Arch of Delight", "Lone Rino", "13th dwarf", "Dwarf Nebula", "Cheetah Wheelie" and "On Edge" on the upper slabs.

cliff_hanger - Jan 12, 2007 11:23 pm - Hasn't voted

St Johns Upper

Copied form the Clapp & Treat "New Route Book" in the mid-1980's

Upper Slab Area

Meteor Shower 5.9+
FA: Steve Chase (Toprope) 8/85
Near the left end of the main slab is a very thin 20-25' slab

Unnamed 5.6 **
FA: Bob Clark, Chad Hussey, Steve Williard, Rick Palm 5/85
The first obvious crack right of the hollow flake. Clean and attractive. Follow it to the hollow flake, step left and finish up the same beautiful face found on "Hollow Flake". The upper face is poorly protected.

Arch of Delight 5.6 **
FA: Bill Ferruci 9/84
The large arch facing left on the left side of the slabs. Start on the face and cruise up the dorner. Good moves take you up the overlap.

Lone Rino 5.5 **
FA: Stew Sayah, Steve Chase 9/85
Follow the first major crack system on the upper band.

13th Dwarf 5.5 **
FA: Peter Wallace, Steve Chase 5/85
Follow the second major crack system (from the left)

Dwarf Nebula 5.9- **
FA: Phil Knight, Steve Chase, Tim Glover
Start at 13th Dwarf, move left to the face at the "false ledge". Follow thin face moves up to a small horizontal crack/ledge and finish up right. Fair pro.
Direct Start 5.9 **
FA: Dean Levesque
Climb the face to the left of the 13th Dwarf crack

Cheetah Wheelie 5.6 **
FA: Stew Sayah, Steve Chase
Clib the obvious dike 100 feet right of 13th Dwarf. Climb up 15 feet, step left to some high steps. Move right to a tree. Follow the crack to the top.

On Edge 5.6 **
FA: Bill Ferrucci, Dean Levesque
Climb the arete on the right side of the "EMC" wall.

Pig Mine 5.7 *
FA: Bill ferrucci, Dean Levesque 5/86
Clib the crack 15' right of 13th Dwarf

ST. Steven 5.9 ***
FA: Dean Levesque, Bill Ferrucci
Start at the obvious scooped headwall. Climb straight up. Sustained.

Tombstone blues 5.5-5.6
Cruise up the corned and face to the right of On Edge. Pull up over the white, loose "Tombstone".

Baby Snakes 5.8
FA: Dean Levesque, Bill Ferrucci 6/86
Climb the face just to the left of On Edge

Uni1820 - Jun 23, 2008 8:21 pm - Hasn't voted

EMC Wall

The "Upper Slabs" routes described from the Clapp & Treat route book is actually called the Excentric Mountaineers Wall (EMC Wall) which can be found about a ten minute walk south of the top of the primary Upper Slab area. We cleaned these routes in 1985, and found them to be enjoyable, generally high quality, albiet tough to get to routes, that are well worth the effort of bushwacking to them. Check them out.

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