Oedipus Complex, 5.10c

1st Pitch- 45m- 5.9/ The first pitch contains the worst rock on the route. Start up the easy dirty corner. As the ground stiffens, you come across two bolts. Make several 5.9 moves past these bolts on bad rock. Angle back left into the corner and then back right following a few old pitons up some more chossy rock, turning the arête to the right where there is a decent belay ledge below a bulging wall with a fixed belay below the bolts that start the next pitch. Before you turn the arête, you run across the actual last rappel station for this route, which involves fixed pins. The fixed belay below the bulge is not set up to rap as it is hard to get to from the rap line.
Oedipus Complex, 5.10c, 4 Pitches, Mother's Day Buttress, Cascade Mountain, Banff National Park, August, 2010


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