I was happy to survive an avalanche which was triggered by a russian team just 150m above me.
Solo from Refugio Tejos.
Summited from Tejos Hut and down to Atacama camp.
Climbed with my friend from Barcelona. After arriving and spending one night in Santiago, I took a bus to Copiapo and spent another night in town before 2 nights in Laguna Verde Refugio. It's worth a visit due to the hot springs (one pool is even inside the shelter!). One more night at Murray hut, and finally a night at Atacama camp before going for summit. The acclimation schedule was tight, I felt a bit sick up high and on the way down. We packed up and I felt much better once we got to 4000m.
Thanks for the update. I'm heading there next week. How was the weather? Any cell phone coverage in the area?
The altitude hits differently in northern Chile and we also faced a spurt of bad weather/high winds (45/50km on its way), which hurried up our summit attack by 2 days. We were a bit more fatigued than normal and were opening route in fresh powder, from Tejos. Ended up turning around at 6600m, eager to go back and make it a reality! Very unique scenery, reminds me of the moon!
Climbed Ojos del Salado and some other peaks during a 18 day / 200 km unsupported solo trek through the Atacama desert. Went along the Mike Dorse Direct route.
Joined expedition by Chile Montana, with 8 clients and 2 guides. Base camp was Atacama Refugio, and camp 1 was Tejos Refugio. I turned around at 20000 feet on summit day due to lack of acclimatization, but the rest of the team all made it to the summit.
Fabulous day. Felt great until 6400 m. but slow going thereafter until the summit. Never wanted to go down! It snowed the next day. I think we were the last ones to summit.
I will be attempting Ojos Del Salado in January 2018 but i have just found a website saying you must have a guide to climb the mountain from Chile? Can you shed any light on this as its the first i have heard of it?
Thanks for any help you can provide
After a 5 days approach from Quemadito to El Arenal I had to wait three days in my tent in high camp for the winds to calm down. It took me 7 hours from high camp (5900m) to reach the summit on a perfect day. I stayed an hour on the summit. I had to give up my idea to climb Walter Penck and ATA on the next days because of a massive storm coming in the area, and even had to ask for a 4x4 vehicule to come and take me out of this hell.
Although we didn't reach the summit, it was a truly amazing experience.
The Seismiles and around, in the Argentinian part of the Desert Atacama, is one of the most beautiful areas I've ever had access to on this planet. We chose to approach and climb from Argentina and spent 12 days out there totally cut off from civilization; the summit bid fell on day number 9 and we reached an altitude of 6,600m when we decided to turn back due to exhaustion and the coming of a storm.
Made a high camp in the valley.
Started a little bit to early (alpine...) and met the first sunrays at about 6400 m. The headwall of summit piramide covered by very tricky snow (from about 6500 m), made the ascent a little bit more diffcult. Had to traverse from normal route more into Mike Dorse Direct variant.
Good but cold weather. Luckily almost no wind at all. A post-season trip was a good choice.
Climbed with Radek (brade) and Darek in 18 days unsupported roundtrip.
Climbed with a friend in a couple of days from Arenales BC. Apparently we were only the second team to be successful this season on the Argie side due to huge amounts of snow. When we did it there were large stretches of waist deep snow which made progress slow.
Got there with Marcelo (RIP) from Catamarca and Martin from Buenos Aires. We made an amazing (and never attempted before) approaching route with Marcelo's Unimog (old 4x4 truck). Unfortunately, Martin and I finally did not reach the summit. Anyway, it was one of the most exciting adventure I've ever lived, within some of the most beautiful and remote landscapes you could ever dream of. 15 amazing days spent in the area.
Climbed from Tejos, started at 1:00 am. Reached the crater 7-8h later, where we had to stop for 1h to warm our feet, which were insensitive from the cold. We had been tramping in ankle-deep snow for 5 hours. There has been lots of snowfall this year, according to our guide Fernando.
Anyway, starting again at 10am, slow climb to the Chilean summit in 2h. Summiters additionally to me: Olivier Faivre and Fernando Opazo (guide). Great views from the summit. Interminable descent. Rested 1h in Tejos refuge before heading down to Atacama camp.
Neil, Harriet, Arkaitz and Lisandro summitted in perfect weather and spent an hour on the summit before descending. We climbed via the normal route from a high camp at 5750m.
For Neil and Harriet this was one of five peaks climbed in the area (Viento, Ojos, Medusa, Cazadero, Nacimiento) in nine days. For info on these climbs look at our blog: www.pikesonhikes.blogspot.com
I climbed this peak in 2 days with a great group of peakbaggers. It was very cold and very dusty but the rock climb at the top was not as hard as I expected.
Road to Road in 4 days, solo unsupported. From Arenal to Cazadero in 15 hours, it was a loooong and tiring day. Summit straight from Arenal by "normal" route. Two days later Pissis in 24h. Great Adventure!:)
I am going solo and unsupported July 1th 2009.
1) Did you go up all the way from Arenal to the summit straight?
2) Would you like to tell me how you aclimatized?
3)AND did you really go from Arenal to Cazadero Grande in 15 hours? It is 54,5 km, according to my research. Or did you mean From Arenal to Aguas Calientes?
4) And only in 4 days from road to road???
I plan to aclimatize at Cazadero and Quemadito, before going up to the other camps.
Did you do it in winter or summer?
Hellmuth Christian Stuven
Hi! it better to reply later than not at all;)
2.I climbed Aconcagua 10 days before, had good aclimatization
3.yes, all the way down. long and hard walk but I was in a hurry to climb Pissis;)
4.yes, apparently the other polish guy Pedro, did it month after me too.
hope u climbed it!