Ojos del Salado Climber's Log

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Petro - May 9, 2009 5:39 pm Date Climbed: Apr 12, 2009

Solo from the argentinian side  Sucess!

Similar to chris_goulet. I got by bike to Cazadero Grande and climbed the Ojos solo and unsupported (by the wide ridge on the right hand side of the glaciers). Climbed down by Mike Dorse Direct or a line close to it.
From Cazadero Grande to the summit and back to Cazadero Grande in 4 days.
Then continued to Copiapo by bike. Also a part of a longer trip.


HellmuthStuven - Jun 5, 2009 7:19 am

Re: Solo from the argentinian side

Hello, I am going solo and unsupporte July 1th 2009.
Did you really climb it from road to road in just 4 days??????

I plan to aclimatize at Cazadero and Quemadito, before going up to the other camps.
Did you do it in winter or summer?

Hellmuth Christian Stuven


mthomas - Mar 1, 2009 12:15 pm Date Climbed: May 14, 2006

Normal Route up Chilean Side  Sucess!

Spectacular weather on this climb after the normal climbing season. For the entire 10 days that we spent climbing in the area, the three of us (Sebastian Martinez from Aventurismo.cl, our driver Giglio, and me) were the only people in probably several hundred square kilometers, except for the three Chilean border guards. We didn't have any of the high winds that typically curtail many of the attempts.


CBakwin - Feb 20, 2008 6:01 pm Date Climbed: Feb 14, 2008

yo  Sucess!

I tried this the 12th from ¨Puerto laguna negra, but ran outta steam (15km each way) at 6,100m, so moved to the ¨base camp ¨at the base of the snow bowl. summitted the next day , the worst weather of the week, in high winds and ground blizzards. What a slog, very long skree ridge then the usual ¨heartbreaker¨the last little scre slope, but worth every effort. Very nice peak, even if it took two days on mules to get in there,. The whole area really deserves much more time than I gave it, have to come back soon. 6 hrs 40 min up, 2 1/2 hrs down


davelim - Feb 7, 2008 12:36 am Date Climbed: Jan 20, 2005

Ojos - Solo  Sucess!

So there we have it - plodding and cramponing up some wind slab on a windy day - a nice, but mentally tough solo of Ojos Del Salado. 2nd attempt after the first was thwarted by deep snow and strong winds on Jan 18th. Left camp ( 5700m?) at 430am and reached the summit at 230 -245pm. Wicked 60-80km/h winds at the top - could barely stand. Local expert Jonson reynoso claimed my ascent was the 3rd solo - who knows?

My website at http://www.everest.org.sg - scroll the bar onthe left till you get to the 2005 expedition


chris_goulet - Dec 10, 2010 11:59 pm

Re: Ojos - Solo

This man's determination is unbelievable. He's partially disabled with Guillain-Barre Syndrome. Both of his calf muscles and one ankle are non-functional.

Great to see you on SP, Dave, and congratulations!


chris_goulet - Feb 10, 2014 5:32 am

Re: Ojos - Solo

This man's determination is unbelievable. He's partially disabled with Guillain-Barre Syndrome. Both of his calf muscles and one ankle are non-functional.

Great to see you on SP, Dave, and congratulations!

(re-posted this reply because it got detached from davelim's Feb 7, 2008 post)


LS - Feb 5, 2008 7:47 pm Date Climbed: Jan 21, 2008

Ojos in snow  Sucess!

Together with Erik K, I reached the summit of Ojos after 10 hours, a never ending struggle in sometimes deep snow. One of my hardest days ever in high altitudes.....

Read the entire trip-report here:


Ario - Jan 26, 2008 1:23 pm Date Climbed: Jan 18, 2008

Argentinian Route  Sucess!

summited with fellow Alpine Club of Canada (Montreal Section) member Nicolai. He left @ 4:15 am and I followed @ 5:20 am and we reached the summit together @ 4:00 pm after a day of struggle with the fresh powder snow (10 to 50 cm) that had completly recovered the route. Weather was good with only winds during the descent.


FrançoisJ - Jan 21, 2008 5:38 am Date Climbed: Jan 2, 2008

Normal route Chile  Sucess!

Sabrina, Tatiana, Eduardo and I summited Ojos del Salado (jan 2nd 2008).
We classically reached west "chilean" summit from Tejos. Then downclimbed east side of the breach between west "chilean" summit and east "argentinian" summit, very easy 2 meters grade I, traversed fifteen meters to the minibreach, climbed the miniwall (2-3 m, II) and walked up to east "argentinian" summit and back.
Technically easy but watch out for loose rocks.
Great day, some clouds, quite warm and not windy for the area and height...
Many thanks to Tatiana and Eduardo, info@nasqa.com


ElCapitanKoolAid - May 22, 2006 4:11 am

Guiding is fun  Sucess!

I was working for A Chilean company and was assigned to guide this trip. I Enjoyed taking the climet to the summit and encourage him to continue.


tetontom - Apr 19, 2006 3:06 am

Normal Chile Route  Sucess!

As a guide, I've done this trip a few different ways: combined w/ Aconcagua, combined w/ Tupungato, and on it's own as a 15-day jeep-safari.
We just started combining Ojos w/ acclimatization around San Pedro de Atacama, and this REALLY seems like the way to go! Inca ruins, hot-springs, mountain biking, and hikes up 5000M volcanos. Anyone thinking of doing Ojos should look into spending some time around San Pedro.


tkikuchibr - Mar 24, 2006 2:47 am Date Climbed: Mar 10, 2006

Normal route - Chile  Sucess!

After climbing Aconcagua, I met with guide Sebastian Martinez in Copiapo airport, heading to Laguna Santa Rosa.
Spent a couple of days in Laguna Verde and arrived at Atacama refuge (5.245m) on Mar07. Move to Tejos refuge (5.837m) on the 09th.
Summit bid started at 04:00AM, traversing glaciar and reaching the crater. Summit was achieved at 13:30, signed the book and returned to Tejos at 17:00. Little windy, but perfect sunny day.
The post climb days were enjoyed at the seaside, in Bahia Inglesa.
Thanks a lot to Sebastian and Victor (Aventurismo).

Uwe Kraus

Uwe Kraus - Dec 8, 2005 3:28 pm

Route Climbed: normal chilean route Date Climbed: March 1995  Sucess!

My first journey to South America I made with the DAV Summit Club, a German travel agency. With a group of 21 people we intended to climb the highest (but extinct) volcano all over the world, the 6.893 m high Ojos del Salado. From La Paz first we went by bus and then by train (approx. 530 km) to Uyuni. Here we switched to jeeps and rode over 2000 km over the Altiplano and reached then the driest desert all over the world, the Atacama. After the climb to Ojos del Salado we went further to the south. In Caldera we switched to a bus to Santiago de Chile and covered the last 835 kilometres of our trip.

bruno baschung

bruno baschung - Aug 18, 2005 8:01 am

Route Climbed: normal chilean route Date Climbed: end of january 1994  Sucess!

Summit climbed with a french commercial expedition (after having climbed Tupungato a few days before) end of january 1994.

We climbed the "main" summit also called chilean summit (with fixed ropes), I mean the one on your right when leaving the crater and entering the final gully.

A nice climb!



Bergrot - Jun 13, 2005 1:36 pm

Route Climbed: Argentinian Normal Route Date Climbed: 8 Dec 2004  Sucess!

Walked in solo without support from Cazadero Grande. Attempted the summit from El Arenal camp. 12 hours up and 6 hours down, great tour under perfect conditions, but horrible scree on the last 100m.

Reached east summit 17.45 pm: few clouds, -5°C, 100km/h wind.

GPS altitude: 6907m.

Snow or water was available at every camp site.

Met the first other climbers after 14 days on my way back at Aguas Calientes camp.

For information about the area I can also recommend Johnson Reynoso in Fiambala. He knows the puna best.


Corax - Apr 19, 2006 8:05 am

Re: Route Climbed: Argentinian, east face Date Climbed: Jan 20, 2005

Possibly the 3rd solo from Argentina.

I was told mine was the fourth and I climbed it in March 2005. If we were three and four, it would make Gehlhaar number two.

Who was first in soloing Ojos?


Bergrot - Jun 22, 2006 1:02 pm

Re: Route Climbed: Argentinian, east face Date Climbed: Jan 20, 2005

Corax: Who was first in soloing Ojos?

It's interesting that within 4 months three climbers soloed from the Argentinian side. I think, the unofficial rating we three do, is based on informations from Jonson Reynoso in Fiambala. He told me that a guy from Salta (Argentina) was the first and only who tried it before. But he told me no name and year.

By the way, during the first attempt on the Argentinian side (1968?), the Austrian Hias Rebitsch arrived the summit also alone, because his team member wasn't able to climb higher than their last camp at 6200 or 6400m. In the way some people understand soloing, it was also a solo.

In December 2005 another Austrian mountain guide did the way from Chorro to the summit and return in 4 or 5 days, solo. I met him before his start in Fiambala.

With the excellent information on this website mainly provided by Corax the trip is much easier than few years ago, where nearly no info on the Argentinean Puna was available. Many thanks for this.


desi - Mar 1, 2005 12:48 pm

Route Climbed: normal Date Climbed: 30 december 2005  Sucess!

Beautiful experience and beautiful mountain but quiet hard without snow on the last part of the climb!

Strong wind and cold are nastiers ennemies. Be care to have very hot mittens and shoes.


chris_goulet - Dec 24, 2004 6:38 am Date Climbed: Feb 28, 1993

Route Climbed: Solo, similar to normal route, but spiraled up counterclockwise.  Sucess!

Possibly the first entirely solo ascent. Mountain-biked to the Chilean side of Ojos from La Rioja, Argentina. Camped by volcanic fumaroles in the main crater. Continued by bicycle to Copiapo, Chile for a total of three weeks of human-powered exhilaration in this leg of a four-month journey.

Trip report posted at:
Exhilarating Freedom in the Andes

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