I tried this the 12th from ¨Puerto laguna negra, but ran outta steam (15km each way) at 6,100m, so moved to the ¨base camp ¨at the base of the snow bowl. summitted the next day , the worst weather of the week, in high winds and ground blizzards. What a slog, very long skree ridge then the usual ¨heartbreaker¨the last little scre slope, but worth every effort. Very nice peak, even if it took two days on mules to get in there,. The whole area really deserves much more time than I gave it, have to come back soon. 6 hrs 40 min up, 2 1/2 hrs down
So there we have it - plodding and cramponing up some wind slab on a windy day - a nice, but mentally tough solo of Ojos Del Salado. 2nd attempt after the first was thwarted by deep snow and strong winds on Jan 18th. Left camp ( 5700m?) at 430am and reached the summit at 230 -245pm. Wicked 60-80km/h winds at the top - could barely stand. Local expert Jonson reynoso claimed my ascent was the 3rd solo - who knows?
My website at http://www.everest.org.sg - scroll the bar onthe left till you get to the 2005 expedition
Together with Erik K, I reached the summit of Ojos after 10 hours, a never ending struggle in sometimes deep snow. One of my hardest days ever in high altitudes.....
Read the entire trip-report here:
summited with fellow Alpine Club of Canada (Montreal Section) member Nicolai. He left @ 4:15 am and I followed @ 5:20 am and we reached the summit together @ 4:00 pm after a day of struggle with the fresh powder snow (10 to 50 cm) that had completly recovered the route. Weather was good with only winds during the descent.
Sabrina, Tatiana, Eduardo and I summited Ojos del Salado (jan 2nd 2008).
We classically reached west "chilean" summit from Tejos. Then downclimbed east side of the breach between west "chilean" summit and east "argentinian" summit, very easy 2 meters grade I, traversed fifteen meters to the minibreach, climbed the miniwall (2-3 m, II) and walked up to east "argentinian" summit and back.
Technically easy but watch out for loose rocks.
Great day, some clouds, quite warm and not windy for the area and height...
Many thanks to Tatiana and Eduardo, email@example.com
Corax: Who was first in soloing Ojos?
It's interesting that within 4 months three climbers soloed from the Argentinian side. I think, the unofficial rating we three do, is based on informations from Jonson Reynoso in Fiambala. He told me that a guy from Salta (Argentina) was the first and only who tried it before. But he told me no name and year.
By the way, during the first attempt on the Argentinian side (1968?), the Austrian Hias Rebitsch arrived the summit also alone, because his team member wasn't able to climb higher than their last camp at 6200 or 6400m. In the way some people understand soloing, it was also a solo.
In December 2005 another Austrian mountain guide did the way from Chorro to the summit and return in 4 or 5 days, solo. I met him before his start in Fiambala.
With the excellent information on this website mainly provided by Corax the trip is much easier than few years ago, where nearly no info on the Argentinean Puna was available. Many thanks for this.
I was working for A Chilean company and was assigned to guide this trip. I Enjoyed taking the climet to the summit and encourage him to continue.
Possibly the 3rd solo from Argentina.
I was told mine was the fourth and I climbed it in March 2005. If we were three and four, it would make Gehlhaar number two.
Who was first in soloing Ojos?
As a guide, I've done this trip a few different ways: combined w/ Aconcagua, combined w/ Tupungato, and on it's own as a 15-day jeep-safari.
We just started combining Ojos w/ acclimatization around San Pedro de Atacama, and this REALLY seems like the way to go! Inca ruins, hot-springs, mountain biking, and hikes up 5000M volcanos. Anyone thinking of doing Ojos should look into spending some time around San Pedro.
After climbing Aconcagua, I met with guide Sebastian Martinez in Copiapo airport, heading to Laguna Santa Rosa.
Spent a couple of days in Laguna Verde and arrived at Atacama refuge (5.245m) on Mar07. Move to Tejos refuge (5.837m) on the 09th.
Summit bid started at 04:00AM, traversing glaciar and reaching the crater. Summit was achieved at 13:30, signed the book and returned to Tejos at 17:00. Little windy, but perfect sunny day.
The post climb days were enjoyed at the seaside, in Bahia Inglesa.
Thanks a lot to Sebastian and Victor (Aventurismo).
My first journey to South America I made with the DAV Summit Club, a German travel agency. With a group of 21 people we intended to climb the highest (but extinct) volcano all over the world, the 6.893 m high Ojos del Salado. From La Paz first we went by bus and then by train (approx. 530 km) to Uyuni. Here we switched to jeeps and rode over 2000 km over the Altiplano and reached then the driest desert all over the world, the Atacama. After the climb to Ojos del Salado we went further to the south. In Caldera we switched to a bus to Santiago de Chile and covered the last 835 kilometres of our trip.
Summit climbed with a french commercial expedition (after having climbed Tupungato a few days before) end of january 1994.
We climbed the "main" summit also called chilean summit (with fixed ropes), I mean the one on your right when leaving the crater and entering the final gully.
A nice climb!
Walked in solo without support from Cazadero Grande. Attempted the summit from El Arenal camp. 12 hours up and 6 hours down, great tour under perfect conditions, but horrible scree on the last 100m.
Reached east summit 17.45 pm: few clouds, -5°C, 100km/h wind.
GPS altitude: 6907m.
Snow or water was available at every camp site.
Met the first other climbers after 14 days on my way back at Aguas Calientes camp.
For information about the area I can also recommend Johnson Reynoso in Fiambala. He knows the puna best.
Beautiful experience and beautiful mountain but quiet hard without snow on the last part of the climb!
Strong wind and cold are nastiers ennemies. Be care to have very hot mittens and shoes.
Possibly the first entirely solo ascent. Mountain-biked to the Chilean side of Ojos from La Rioja, Argentina. Camped by volcanic fumaroles in the main crater. Continued by bicycle to Copiapo, Chile for a total of three weeks of human-powered exhilaration in this leg of a four-month journey.
Trip report posted at:
Exhilarating Freedom in the Andes
Just me and my climbing partner M this beautiful day.
After climbing Acon, we spent 2 nights at the laguna, headed up to camp 1 with the car, moved to camp 2 same day and summited next morning. 7 hours from camp 2 in perfect weather.
stayed on the summit for about 30 minutes signing the book and enjoying the view. Right after descending a fierce snowstorm hit the mountain!
After climbing Aconcagua we reached Ojos very good acclimatized. The route itself was hard and the climb at the end not too difficult. The weather was perfect with only little wind, so we could stay half an hour on top.
5 days on the mountain after a great climb of Aconcagua. Climbed to 21000 ft with Stephen from France. The night before left 1 foot of snow and covered the route. We climbed for 8 hours then had to go down because of the storm. Still had a great time. If you are coming from Aconcagua I suggest calling Carlos Aguilar Vivar.
He is a great guy and cheaper than renting a 4WD truck. The Tejos hut is great, and it is crazy to sleep on a bunk at 19000 ft!
I was part of a small group in March, 1992, led by Greg Wilson, of Sun Valley, ID. No one else was on the mountain, thus we had the huts to ourselves. As described it was not technically difficult, except for the altitude and the ascent onto the summit ridge, which required a short rockclimb assisted with jumars. The summit was socked in with clouds- couldnt see a thing beyond a few dozen yards. I remember signing the summit register, but cant recall at all how many signatures were on it.
In contrast to all predictions we had no wind on summit day. Of course in the morning it was quite cold (-10 to -15°C), but 7 1/2 hours later on the summit (6.893m) in the sun it was so warm I didn't wear my GoreTex jacket. Sliding down the ash and scree fields it took us only 1 1/2 hours to return to High Camp (5.750m).