0. General: from 750 m (Martuljek) to 2621 m (summit), exposition N and E, above Za Akom not marked (only partially weak trail), rock climb. Gear: Good shoes, ice-axe, crampons, rope.
1. Effort: 1900 m, 6 h,
2. Power: 4 - hard,
3. Psyche: 4 - hard,
4. Orientation: 4 hard.
See other routes how to reach from Martuljek village (cca 750 m) to Za Akom basin!
The broad basin Za Akom is a beautiful place. Here is the water source, it's sunny and all around are wild mountains. Our climb goes further towards the south.
At first, you can still follow the path, later it is lost in the scree. The orientation is the broad, 800 m tall, vertical wall of Široka peč and below it, on the right side, a distinctive elevation with 3 larches. The scree falls through the left and the right ravine of this hill and it is preferable to choose for the ascent the left one (between the hill with 3 larches and Široka peč wall). This couloir is almost all the year filled with snow, and as it is steep on the upper part, you will probably here first time use crampons and ice axe.
At 3 larches you must take a long rest, this is one of the most beautiful places in Martuljek, which itself is for me also the most beautiful group in Julian Alps. Here the routes to Veliki Oltar over Grlo pass and Over Kačji jezik split. From the Three Larches you proceed towards the south by a scree shoulder. It is not dangerous, but also not very comfortable. Above, it's likely you will already reach snow fields. They continue southwards, towards the left you will see Jug's Couloir - the ascent option to Dovški Križ. Just continue southwards into the basin below Oltar. Ascend the snowfields up, till you hit the rocks below Grlo pass.
The snowfields below Grlo can be steep and especially in late summer hard. So here you will need at least an ice-axe, if not also crampons. From the top of the snowfield you go left over easy rocks and in many turns over the rocks to Grlo pass. These passages are marked by cairns, so with some care you probably will not miss the easiest passages. Difficulties should not exceed degree UIAA I.
From Grlo pass you proceed right, as described on the normal approach from Vrata valley. First you have a steep ravine, then (in the middle) it is best to exit it on the left side and climb over the rocks to the highest point. This requires UIAA II climbing.
By this passage over Grlo during the World War II a group of Slovenian partisans moved from Vrata valley into Martuljek. They were led by local climbers and even if having no proper equipment, nor mountaineering experiences, they all reached the other valley safely.