Original Route

Page Type
Montana, United States, North America
Route Type:
Technical Rock Climb
Time Required:
Most of a day
III, 5.10

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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Created On: Jul 24, 2003
Last Edited On: Jul 24, 2003


Approach from Beehive Basin trailhead. Once at the lake, hike (off-trail) to the base of the main buttress.

Route Description

This route starts approx. 30 meters left of the standard route. Begin in a shallow cave below a left-facing dihedral. Pull off the ground and climb the corner/crack system for as far as you want. There is a belay at 30 meters (route is 5.8 to this belay) or a hanging belay at 55-60 meters (5.9 to this belay). Second pitch continues up and through difficult, awkward overhanging corner (5.10) to ledge. (Optional belay here) Clip the fixed nut and continue up and right (5.6) or move out left on hand traverse to another hanging belay (5.7).

Direct variation: From the top of the hand traverse, continue straight up through another roof (5.10) and onto easier terrain until the summit.

Right variation: After the 5.6 crack system, either continue up and right on moderate terrain until you can scramble left to the summit, or break left at the top of the third pitch for more 5.9 crack. Angle eases off considerably as you near the summit.

Left variation: After the 5.7 hand traverse, continue up the shallow right-facing corner, trending generally left. Easy climbing and scrambling through the path of least resistance will take you directly to the summit.

Essential Gear

Standard rack to a #4 Camalot (very helpful in the wide crack on first pitch). Again, axes might be useful in early/late season climbs. 60 meter rope recommended. Take double ropes if you've got'em and you like'em.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Original Route

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