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Big Bro
Gear Review

Big Bro


Page Type: Gear Review

Object Title: Big Bro

Manufacturer: Trango

Your Opinion: 
 - 5 Votes


Page By: desainme

Created/Edited: Jan 8, 2004 / Jan 8, 2004

Object ID: 962

Hits: 2505 


Big Bros

These puppies are big! For fist crack and offwidth aficionados, Bigbros™ rule. The expanding tube chock design is stable, lightweight, easy to use and strong. Because of their stable nature when they're placed correctly they're almost impossible to dislodge when you're grunting by them, and they make a nice smooth rope guide at the lip of a roof. Their expansion range is phenomenal—a #4 BigBro™ has greater range than an entire set of traditional cams! Trango has supersized the original four

to a gold #5 Range 1ft-1.5ft (287-467mm) and 20 oz or mass 567 gm

• size range: 81mm–305mm

• strength: 15kN

• price: #0.5-$64.95






BigBro Instructions


Viewing: 1-5 of 5

Martin CashUntitled Review

Voted 1/5

What a concept! An expanding tube to protect large cracks weighing in at a small fraction of large cams. Unfortunately, they are useless in many cracks, because of the need to have smooth parallel sides. Unless you know the wide cracks you will be climbing are like this, leave these babies at home. It's a shame that they aren't more versatile.

Even if you have nice uniform cracks (like Indian Creek), you will discover another bad trait about Big Bros. They take much more time and energy than an SLCD to place. While this might be OK on easy routes with good stances, it sucks if you're desperately hanging on to a stiff offwidth.

When I first bought my #2 Big Bro, I really liked it. I placed it on a few easy routes, and felt confident about it, but I have finally seen the light.

Not recommended.
Posted Jan 27, 2004 6:08 pm

miztflipUntitled Review

Voted 4/5

When you need one of these babies there is nothing else that will do. I've used the larger sizes in huge granite offwidth and finally came to trust them when properly placed.

Take some time to learn to place them before trusting your life to them. They are lightweight and more packable than large cams while covering much larger cracks.
Posted Nov 27, 2004 11:50 pm

Erik BeelerUntitled Review

Voted 3/5

When nothing else will do. I have had only a few opportunites to place mine and dislike it every time. Hope I never have to fall on one. Of course it beats not placing pro at all and I am sure I would get better with them if I had more practice with them. Still don't ever plan on falling on one though.

I find I leave mine at home most of the time as they are heavy. Only spend the money on them if you know you are going to use them.
Posted Nov 30, 2004 11:37 am

hmronnowUntitled Review

Voted 5/5

I have fallen on one. It held fine, was easy to remove after fall, and suffered no damage. I have also droped one from about 20m (yes embarassing and cost me a beer). It got scratches but no damage to function.

I don't climb many cracks, but love chimneys. You do not need perfectly flat and paralell sides - but do have to place so that a small protruding feature of rock is inside the cylinder ends.

Equip with dyneema cordelette, as normal 5-6mm cordelette will have much lower rating than the bigbro.
Posted Jan 24, 2005 5:40 am

Brian CGood at what they're for.

Voted 4/5

Although pretty new to me, these seem to be a great fix for giant cams. The obvious downside is that they can't be easily walked up like a cam but are lighter and more compact. Nice to have!
Posted Feb 14, 2011 8:28 pm

Viewing: 1-5 of 5