Page Type Gear Review
Object Title Bugette
Manufacturer DMM
Page By rpc
Page Type Sep 30, 2004 / Sep 30, 2004
Object ID 1136
Hits 3424
DMM has developed the Bugette to compliment its bigger brother, the Bug. Designed for use with ropes from 7.5 mm through to 9.5 mm. The Bugette is Hot Forged from 6082 alloy and heat treated to the T6 condition (whatever the hell that means). Information paraphrased from www.backcountrygear.com.



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rpc - Sep 30, 2004 2:33 pm - Voted 1/5

Untitled Review
Pro's: Lightweight, "simple", sleek-looking belay/rap device.

Con's: The "clip loop" wire on the unit is coated with a rubbery-plastic. It is a fairly high-friction material so that it keeps getting sucked in by ropes on rappels. I've used mine for about ~50 pitches and most of the plastic is gone from the wire. Now the wire itself keeps getting sucked in by the ropes. This presumably would also happen during a fall (have not fallen on the unit). The advertised feature of "cooling ribs" is just a gimmick - the unit heats up just like any other small belay device (enough that I have permanently branded myself multiple times with the "DMM" logo).

Overall, I'm dissatisfied with the performance. During my last 1.5 years of climbing with "thin ropes", I've also tried out two other small belay devices. See below.

IceMonkey - Jul 29, 2005 9:46 am - Voted 2/5

Untitled Review
I was given one of these to try. I used it on 8mm ropes and its not very smooth. I also melted the rubber coating on my first rappel and had to send it back. I still carry one as a back up, cause its so light you don't know your carrying it!

neoday - Jan 24, 2007 6:54 pm - Voted 2/5

just for backup
carry one for backup or learn the munter hitch. Actually used one as my primary with a pair of 8.2 Ice lines. Worked ok for belaying, occasionally getting jammed while feeding out rope for the leader. On rappels, I had the same problems as everyone else, the clip loop was getting stuck on the rope and the black rubbery stuff got rubbed off. I keep it in my garage as a backup and will bring it some times when using skinny ropes, but if I was planning on doing any amount of real climbing where the leader could fall or knew I was going to rappel, I would bring a BD ATC-XP. I might bring it as a backup because it is so light, but I don't think it will see active duty any time soon.

OJ Loenneker - Oct 18, 2009 2:19 pm - Voted 2/5

in the gear box now
I used this for a few rappels on a 8mm cord, and well... It is light and small. It did not seem like it was very good at providing the friction I wanted on the rope during rapelling. It also heats up pretty fast.
I bought a Reversino instead.

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