Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills


Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills
Page Type Gear Review
Object Title Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills
Manufacturer Craig Luebben
Page By skotty
Page Type Feb 6, 2007 / Feb 6, 2007
Object ID 2530
Hits 4626

Book Description (from publisher)

This book presents the most common foot positions, hand grips, and body positions and how to use them precisely, from the smear to the crimp to the twistlock. Going beyond static moves, it emphasizes a dynamic style of movement for the greatest climbing efficiency-a style that makes the most of your strength and your time on the rock.

With an emphasis on safety and how to stay within your abilities, the author teaches how to evaluate potential hazards and then avoid them. Topics addressed include: risk management, face climbing, crack climbing, gear, knots, anchors, belaying, toproping, sport climbing, trad climbing, multi-pitch free climbs, rappelling, aid climbing, bouldering, training, and self-rescue.

- Author is an American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA) certified rock guide and instructor
- Learning exercises reinforce key skills
- Step-by-step technique illustrated in over 150 photos

Table of Contents

Chapter 1: Face Climbing - Dancing on the Rock
Body Position
Moving on Rock

Chapter 2: Crack Climbing - Climbing Cracks from Fingertip Width to Full-Body Chimneys
Splinters and Corners
Finger Jams
Hand and Foot Jams
Moving Up the Crack
Fist Jams
Off-width Cracks
Squeeze Chimneys

Chapter 3: Climbing Gear - Outfitting for the Climb
Belay Devices
Crash Pad
Rope Bags and Tarps
The Ten Essentials
Webbing Slings

Chapter 4: Knots - Bringing the Rope to Life
Harness Tie-in Knots
Knots for Tying into Anchors
Knots for Tying Webbing and Cords into Loops
Knots for Joining Rappel Ropes and Top-ropes
Rappel Safety Knots
Knots for Attaching Slings
Hitch for Rappelling and Belaying

Chapter 5: Belay Anchors and Lead Protection - Protecting Traditional Climbs
The Evolution of Climbing Anchors
Camming Units
Ball Nuts
Big Bro Expandable Tubes
The Climbing Rack
Natural Protection
Fixed Protection
Equalizing Protection
Opposting Protection
The V-angle
Rigging Multidirectional Anchors
Rigging Anchors with a Cordelette
Rigging Belay Anchors with Slings
Rigging Belay Anchors with the Climbing Rope
The Daisy Chain
Keeping the Belayer Down

Chapter 6: Keeping Your Partner Safe
Rigging a Belay Device
Belayer Position and Anchoring
Belaying a Top-roped Climber
Belaying a Leader
Catching a Fall
Lowering a Climber
Belaying a Leader
Catching a Fall
Lowering a Climber
Belaying with a Munter Hitch
Belaying with a GriGri
Belaying the Second Climber
Communication Signals

Chapter 7: Top-roping - Climbing with the Safety of an Overhead Rope
Setting a Slingshot Top-rope
Climbing with a Slingshot Top-rope
Passing a Knot
Managing a Top-belay Top-rope

Chapter 8: Climbing Bolt-protected Routes
Sport-climbing Hazards
Climbing Style
Climbing the Route
Lowering from the Route
Belaying a Sport Route
Onsighting a Route
Working a Route
The Redpoint
Bailing from a Sport Route

Chapter 9: Traditional Lead Climbing - Leading with Protection from Nuts and Cams
Traditional Rack
The Approach
The Route
Leading Strategy
The Protection System
The Physics of Falling
Keeping Your Head
Following a Pitch
The First Lead

Chapter 10: Multipitch Free Climbs Climbing High and Free
The Two-person Team
Rope Management
Where to Belay
Hanging Belay
Fast and Light
Extra Gear for a Long Route
Time Budget
Three-person Teams

Chapter 11: Getting Down - Returning to Earth
Walking Off

Chapter 12: Bouldering - Leaving the Rope at Home
The Bouldering Session
Bouldering Variety
Bouldering Hazards
Environmental Considerations

Chapter 13: Training - Improving Your Mental and Physical Fitness for Rock Climbing
Warming Up
Work Your Weaknesses
Improvising Technique
Power and Endurance
Climbing Strength
Training the Brain
Hydration and Nutrition

Chapter 14: Climbing Safe - Avoiding and Escaping Bad Situations
Self-rescue and First-aid Training
Self-rescue Gear
Friction Hitches
Load-releasable Knots
Ascending a Rope
Escaping a Belay
The Next Step
Hauling Your Partner
Rappelling Past a Knot
Tandem Rappel to Evacuate an Injured Partner

Appendix A - Climbing Rating Systems
Appendix B - Suggested Reading
Appendix C - Climbing Resources

About the Author

Craig Luebben has taught rock climbing basics to hundreds of clients and has conducted self-rescue clinics across the U.S. Craig has been guiding professionally for more than twenty years. The author of How to Rappel!, How to Ice Climb!, and other titles, he has written for magazines including Climbing and Rock & Ice. He has opened many new routes on four continents. He currently serves on the board of the AMGA.

Book Details

Paperback: 301 pages
Product Dimensions: 8.5 x 6.8 x 0.6 inches
Publisher: Mountaineers Books (March 2004)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 0898867436
ISBN-13: 978-0898867435



Viewing: 1-1 of 1

skotty - Feb 6, 2007 11:43 pm - Hasn't voted

The next level
After reading Freedom of the Hills, taking a couple weekend-long rock climbing courses and getting myself into trouble on vertical rock, I found this book a great supplement to take my rock climbing knowledge to the next level. As evident by the table of contents, this book covers virtually every consideration in rock climbing with clarity, which is enhanced with tons of photos and diagrams that put the complex topics into perspective. Even if this book had no text, the images and diagrams alone would provide a wealth of information.

My only compliant is more my personal peeve, but I found the author's use of colloquialisms gratuitous for such an authoritative text. I know avid rock climbers are especially fond of their own brand of slang, but I find comfort in my instructors describing a route as a "run-out with significant exposure and limited holds" instead of simply describing it as "wicked" - personally, it doesn't inspire confidence.

Viewing: 1-1 of 1