Page Type Gear Review
Object Title Techno
Manufacturer Scarpa
Page By rhyang
Page Type Jun 18, 2009 / Jun 18, 2009
Object ID 6211
Hits 4110

Product Description

The Techno is Scarpa's trad shoe, built for all-day comfort. Reputedly they were designed by Heinz Mariacher, who designed the Mythos for La Sportiva when he worked for them.


From the Scarpa website :

Sole: Vibram XS Grip; 4 mm
Last: FN
Sizes: 36-47 (half sizes)
Weight: 214g (1/2 pair size 42)

They also come in a women's version.



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rhyang - Jun 18, 2009 9:48 am - Voted 5/5

Comfortable and precise
I've owned several pairs of Mythos, and when these first appeared I figured they were just another mythos clone.

But after climbing in them a while I'm pretty impressed. They edge and smear pretty well for an "all day" shoe. They are comfortable in cracks. I like the XS Grip rubber too.

Sizing: My toes are somewhat wide and I have narrow heels. My feet measure 9.5 US / 42.5 EU and the left is a little longer than the right (I'm told that's typical for right-handed people). Initially I bought a pair of these in 41.5, thinking they would stretch after a few days of climbing, but that didn't happen -- too tight. Later I went with size 42 instead, which is about perfect for me.

JohnEly - Oct 6, 2009 8:19 am - Hasn't voted

excellent all around
My pair fit tightly, but I think this is one of the best shoes since the old scarpa purple dominator. Like the mythos, the techno has a strap on the back allowing one to control for streatching. The shoes edge well, and have excellent construction, and the same ability to point the toe as the old dominator. The rubber seems harder than the 5.10 stealth rubber, but seems to hold just as well. I found too that buying them at normal size worked best as they fit tightly, and can be controlled for stretching. I don't last more than a pitch or too without taking them off at the belay with 42s on my relatively wide US size 10 1/2 feet.

RyderS - Jan 28, 2011 3:49 pm - Hasn't voted

Super Solid
When my friends are all peeling off their shoes between routes to relieve pain, I can't really relate to them. The Techno has been a super comfortable shoe in terms of all-day comfort. They have performed solidly in the climbing gym, on granite, on Gunks conglomerate, and even slate (yes, I tried slate...). They've contoured very nicely to my feet. I haven't had the problems with big air pockets developing in the shoe upon tightening; I had this problem when trying the Evolv Defy shoes--those combo moccasins w/velcro.

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