The shield is remarkable for that one, long crack that splits it. My feet hate it, though. With a little deviation you can climb both pitches wihout ever sticking your toe in a crack. You still want the crack for hands and protection, and you may have to wander 10-15 feet from it in places, but you feet can enjoy standing on chickenheads the whole way! The downside is that if you take a long leader fall, those chickenheads will snap your ankles. Can't have everything, I guess.
If you can lead 5.9, you don't need pro on a 5.0 traverse, right? Gravity doesn't take a coffee break while it waits for you to get to hard stuff again. I know of two guys who died when one slipped from the traverse and plucked his partner with him. Clip in here and there.
Darrin's gear suggestion is right on. I'd only add that on the small side, we brought and used (quite a bit) down to a green Alien cams (<1/2 inch). Also, keep in mind that essentially all anchors are gear anchors which might deplete your rack before you even start a pitch.
Thanks for posting the link. You're right, it is an awesome shot. The perspective really shows how magnificent this climb really is. When I saw the photo my first reaction was "I climbed that?"
The 10b direct start is highly recommended. We did it as two pitches. One trivial to get to the base of the big right-facing corner. The second was the best climbing on the route. Step into the corner, climb flakes to the roof, plug in gear and then make some bold face moves. The business is moving from a good left foot and undercling to a tricky finger crack/knob sequence. You can fiddle in a small nut into the finger crack before commiting if you want to pro the move (I did). Then go for it. Steep and pumpy until you get to a bomber hand crack.
Eric Sandbo - Mar 16, 2005 4:38 pm - Voted 9/10
Route CommentThe shield is remarkable for that one, long crack that splits it. My feet hate it, though. With a little deviation you can climb both pitches wihout ever sticking your toe in a crack. You still want the crack for hands and protection, and you may have to wander 10-15 feet from it in places, but you feet can enjoy standing on chickenheads the whole way! The downside is that if you take a long leader fall, those chickenheads will snap your ankles. Can't have everything, I guess.
Eric Sandbo - Mar 16, 2005 4:55 pm - Voted 9/10
Route CommentIf you can lead 5.9, you don't need pro on a 5.0 traverse, right? Gravity doesn't take a coffee break while it waits for you to get to hard stuff again. I know of two guys who died when one slipped from the traverse and plucked his partner with him. Clip in here and there.
rpc - Jul 6, 2005 2:23 pm - Voted 10/10
Route CommentDarrin's gear suggestion is right on. I'd only add that on the small side, we brought and used (quite a bit) down to a green Alien cams (<1/2 inch). Also, keep in mind that essentially all anchors are gear anchors which might deplete your rack before you even start a pitch.
rpc - Jul 22, 2005 5:35 pm - Voted 10/10
Route CommentCheck this one out:
photo
darinchadwick - Jul 22, 2005 6:39 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentThanks for posting the link. You're right, it is an awesome shot. The perspective really shows how magnificent this climb really is. When I saw the photo my first reaction was "I climbed that?"
MichaelJ - Aug 19, 2008 2:46 pm - Hasn't voted
10b direct startThe 10b direct start is highly recommended. We did it as two pitches. One trivial to get to the base of the big right-facing corner. The second was the best climbing on the route. Step into the corner, climb flakes to the roof, plug in gear and then make some bold face moves. The business is moving from a good left foot and undercling to a tricky finger crack/knob sequence. You can fiddle in a small nut into the finger crack before commiting if you want to pro the move (I did). Then go for it. Steep and pumpy until you get to a bomber hand crack.