pvalchev - Jul 1, 2013 7:16 pm Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2013
Outguard
Fun climb, but spooky rock quality - have to be careful of several large suspect blocks. Pitch 3 was by far the crux, and harder than anything on Positive Vibrations for instance... the 10d crux on pitch 4 is much less physical/more straightforward, but also protects with very small gear so it keeps you on the edge.
Dow Williams - Jul 1, 2013 10:01 am Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2013
Outguard Spire
Did Escape from Poland on the Hulk the day before and we felt this route was quite a bit tougher. Of course a major part of that is the difference in rock quality. The first pitch has a spicy start and finish. The final layback of this pitch is on micro gear in a chossy corner. The second pitch is the most straight forward of the first four. We went too high in the corner on the third pitch but that is a way to protect the leader if both leader and second with downclimb to clean it. The traverse on this pitch is fairly immediate and hard, crux of the route for me. The fourth pitch is a micro gear sustained corner. The final pitch is quick and easy. We stayed roped up for the summit jaunt. Two raps with a 70m rope (stretcher) then another short rap to get down the gully.
pvalchev - Jul 1, 2013 7:16 pm Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2013
OutguardFun climb, but spooky rock quality - have to be careful of several large suspect blocks. Pitch 3 was by far the crux, and harder than anything on Positive Vibrations for instance... the 10d crux on pitch 4 is much less physical/more straightforward, but also protects with very small gear so it keeps you on the edge.
Dow Williams - Jul 1, 2013 10:01 am Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2013
Outguard SpireDid Escape from Poland on the Hulk the day before and we felt this route was quite a bit tougher. Of course a major part of that is the difference in rock quality. The first pitch has a spicy start and finish. The final layback of this pitch is on micro gear in a chossy corner. The second pitch is the most straight forward of the first four. We went too high in the corner on the third pitch but that is a way to protect the leader if both leader and second with downclimb to clean it. The traverse on this pitch is fairly immediate and hard, crux of the route for me. The fourth pitch is a micro gear sustained corner. The final pitch is quick and easy. We stayed roped up for the summit jaunt. Two raps with a 70m rope (stretcher) then another short rap to get down the gully.