Outguard Spire

3rd Pitch- 50m- 5.10c/ The short corner directly above had two fixed pieces in 2013. The intent could be variable, but I suspect the high piece with a biner is not a bail biner but rather a way to protect the traverse up high for the leader. The crux of the route in my opinion is the sloping and shallow crack just meters above the belay that takes you left to another finger splitter before the main right facing corner. If you are going to protect that high up, then both the leader and second will have to down climb the short corner. In any regard, make the hard traverse left several meters and run up the finger crack above. Unlike the previous pitch, any hands will be far and few between (another crux) until you can move left to a hand crack. When you can exit left, follow your nose to yet another right facing corner with a piton (2013) at the base.
Outguard Spire, Little Slide Spires, Incredible Hulk area, High Sierra, June, 2013


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