Approach to Smooth Sole Wall Left
Follow the climber's trail from Fern Valley Road parking area up to Suicide Rock. The trail will spit you out at the Weeping Wall. It is possible to take a shortcut trail to the left (south) not too far after the penny tree, this side trail will take you to the base of the Buttress of Cracks. Nevertheless, there are many
of these shortcut trails all over the way up to the rock. Stay Oriented.
Once you arrive to the base of Buttress of Cracks, Weeping Wall or anything right of the Sunshine Face, continue along the base of the rock up to Sunshine Face, and continue up the loose descent gully. Stay to the Left of the gully and look for a small tree and ledge system. Drop down (still Class 1) and go under a giant flake to a alcove. Climb up and over (Class 3) to the base of the Smooth Sole Wall's Right side. You should see a very large tree hanging precariously above the face. Continue up and along the trail. At the next flat belay area you will be at the base of Mickey Mantle, a great 5.8 mantlefest. Above and dominating the skyline will be the spectacular arete climb, Over and Out
Scramble over a log and some boulders to get to a easy crack system (5.6) that goes up and right. This will get you access to a 2-bolt belay spot.
- From the belay pedestal, move up and left to a bolt (5.9) and gain the arete. From here, the climb is simple (5.6 R), follow the magnificent, wild arete that gets progressively easier as you continue up. There is no gear past the bolt
, making it R rated. It is possible
to sling a couple of horns along the way, but these are very sketchy placements and
It is possible to Toprope this awesome line. From the base of the climb, scramble left up and way around the face to some Class 4 ledges. Follow up thru trees to gain the top of the left side of Smooth Sole Walls. You should be able to see the ground from up on this ledge. Gain the top and find 2 sets of 2-bolt belay anchors. Use the furthest one over and left for Over and Out
. Two 60m ropes are needed along with creative rope management to make sure you can lower the TR'ed climber. All worth it!
Essential GearFor Leading
- 1 Longer ( 14 in.) Quickdraw
Some Dynema slings to possibly sling horns. (read=sketchy)
- Anchor Setup
Two 60m Ropes
Creative Rope Management
Rap the route with 2 60m ropes, or downclimb to the right along easy Class 4 ledges to the base of the Smooth Sole Wall.
This very cool climb was first done in October of 1987, by Bob Gaines, Troy Mayr and Mike Van Volkom.