Over Easy (Middle Spire)

Page Type
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Technical Rock Climb
Time Required:
Less than two hours
5.7 (YDS)
Rock Difficulty:
5.7 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:

Route Quality: 5 Votes

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Over Easy (Middle Spire)
Created On: Nov 27, 2005
Last Edited On: Dec 1, 2008


Follow approach trail from parking area - 15 minutes or less - to the north side of Middle Spire.

Route Description

There are several possible starts : lieback up the triangular flake, chimney up between the face and the flake, or use the vertical 5.7 crack first.

Then head up the face to a bolt, up over a roof with HUGE holds, and finally up the jugs (very gym-like), traversing somewhat left near the top to a set of anchor bolts / chains. Rappel off to descend.

You can also continue up the obvious arete from the anchors to a bolted 5.10b route called The Prow, which is balancy, airy fun !

Essential Gear

SuperTopo recommends cams in the 0.75-3.5" range, plus extra slings to tie off knobs / jugs.

Miscellaneous Info

Supertopo route beta page is here.

Over Easy (Middle Spire)

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