Follow approach trail from parking area - 15 minutes or less - to the north side of Middle Spire.
There are several possible starts : lieback up the triangular flake, chimney up between the face and the flake, or use the vertical 5.7 crack first.
Then head up the face to a bolt, up over a roof with HUGE holds, and finally up the jugs (very gym-like), traversing somewhat left near the top to a set of anchor bolts / chains. Rappel off to descend.
You can also continue up the obvious arete from the anchors to a bolted 5.10b route called The Prow
, which is balancy, airy fun !
SuperTopo recommends cams in the 0.75-3.5" range, plus extra slings to tie off knobs / jugs.
Supertopo route beta page is here