Over south slopes and face

Page Type
Julian Alps, Italy/Slovenia, Europe
Route Type:
Scramble, climbing, UIAA I-II
Time Required:
A long day
Walk-up and easy climbing

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Over south slopes and face
Created On: Oct 17, 2004
Last Edited On: Dec 28, 2004


Starting point of this route is Tamar hut, which lies in Tamar valley. Tamar valley is actually upper part of Planica valley, which is farthest to the west of all Julian Alps valleys, which are perpendicular on Upper Sava River valley. Planica is best known for ski jumping & flying. World distance records have been set here. Valley is closed on the south by massive walls of Mojstrovka, Travnik & Sit ridge. On its beginning lies the village of Ratece.

Tamar hut (1108m) stands on the edge of a meadow from which is beautiful view on the towering peaks around, especially Jalovec. This is one of the most romantic spots in Julian Alps. It was opened in 1899. It has 128 beds and its open all year round. Tamar hut is accessible by car from Ratece (6km).

Route Description

From the Tamar hut path gradually ascends through the forest till it reaches huge scree slopes at the end of the valley. Cliffs on both sides of the valley are getting closer and valley gets steeper all the time, turning it almost into gorge.

From here you notice steep climbing shelf in the cliffs on the right. At the altitude around 1550m path turns right going far right using this shelf. When it ends path turns left climbing steeply till it reaches large rocky plateau bellow Kotovo Sedlo pass.

Here you leave the marked route and go to the right over a big plateau below the Kotovo sedlo, 2138 and below south face of Kotova spica, 2376m which falls down to Kotovo sedlo. You cross to the big ravine which falls from Kotovo sedlo and from the start of south face of Kotova spica. Now you must find the crossing over the east face of Kotova spica. (I have photoed this detail which you can find it here). When you climb this part (some parts of UIAA II) you come on very steep grassy slopes. You must cross it very carefully!!! Because down from this slopes is a wall high around 200 metres. And then when you cross it you come to the last south slope of Vevnica (photo is here). Now you go to the start of last face and climb on the right ridge and over this ridge you come to the top of Vevnica. (UIAA I-II)

You descend over Via della Vita to the Rob nad Zagacami and then over west slopes of V Koncu spica and Kotova spica come back to Kotovo sedlo (marked route).

The description of this route you can find here.

Essential Gear

Good hiking shoes, helmet, rope and other stuff for climbing.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Over south slopes and face

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