Overhang Bypass

Page Type
Route
Route Type:
technical rock
Time Required:
Less than two hours
Difficulty:
5.7

Route Quality: 3 Votes

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Overhang Bypass
Created On: Nov 22, 2005
Last Edited On: Nov 22, 2005

Approach


From the Hidden Valley Campground day use parking lot walk south toward Intersection Rock, about 10 feet away. Walk to the right side of the rock and look for a line up the middle of the west face.

Route Description


There are a number of left-leaning ramps and cracks that you can follow for the first third of the climb. Climbers usually belay from the bottom of the ramps. I free soloed one that felt 5.5 or 5.6 but if you move left it's even easier. Beware of rope drag if you pitch out the bottom part.

At the top of the ramp there's a ledge/notch (where we set up the first belay) below where the climb goes straight up. Follow easy cracks to the left of a large flake until you hit a small roof. Exit to the left onto some delicate but easy face climbing. This is the only 5.7 move on the first pitch of the climb. Face climb to some cracks and up into a cave where you can set up a belay.

Pitch 2 starts in the cave with a high hands traverse to the right. You can get gear into the crack above your head but don't worry too much: bomber handholds lead out to some wild exposure and a easy mantle move. This is the second 5.7 move on the route and the reason to do the climb. A few feet of moderate friction climbing and you're on top. A short pitch but super fun.

A single rope rap off bolts takes you to a ledge overlooking the parking lot and an easy scramble back to the ground.

Essential Gear


A small rack.

Miscellaneous Info


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