Pão de Açucar (Sugar Loaf) Climber's Log

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Cissa - Aug 6, 2013 11:29 am Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2013

Itlaianos route  Sucess!

Climbed Italianos route joined with Secundo, 5.9, to the summit.

AdrienBC - Mar 27, 2010 8:26 pm Date Climbed: Apr 4, 2004

Helped by a guide

I met a british lad at my hostel. We decided to climb the Pao de Acucar. we took the normal route by behind. When we hit the scramble, there was a brazilian guide and his two clients. He offered us to put a rope around our chest (old school) and we safley passed the crux. Well worth it.

mh - Aug 16, 2009 9:13 am Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2009

Costão: good hike spiced with an exposed 5.6 move  Sucess!

It took me 30min to walk from Botafogo metro station to the small beach near the cable car station (not an interesting walk). I followed a nice pedestrian road skirting around Sugar Loaf on its south side. The road ended at a big cement cylinder. I continued along the trail around the hill for about 300m, past some cement foot holds fixed on slabs, and turned left at some cement cubic blocks with "TOP" or "TOA" spray-painted on.

The trail went up steeply but was easy to follow. The climb was mostly on 30-40 degree rough, studded granite slabs. Some of the spots were exposed but there were always good holds for the feet. The steepest part was about 20m scrambling finished by a 5.6 move (to me 5.6 means you can climb in mountain boots but you would have to trust your feet on limited small holds. I was in my sandals with all straps tightened). There were a local couple with a friend climbing in front of me. The ladies had some difficulties at the crux so I had to wait for them to finish at a small platform just below. The view of the sea and Rio was very nice and the weather was excellent. It was not a too bad place to get stuck in a queue. Two roped local guys (hi Fernando!) came up and past us, and eventually helped the women up. When it was my turn I found the holds were solid and assuring for free soloing.

After the steep bit I took a left turn at a fork and arrived at the top, passing a very good view point. The whole climb was quiet and well worth the effort. I really should have brought my shoes and harness and do some serious climbing because the solid granite walls at Rio must be a blast to climb on with fantastic views.

The sunset at the top was magic. The cable car station didn't insist on showing a ticket to take the cable car down. I took the 511 bus to go back to Copacabana at a bus stop 5min's walk away from the cable car station.


msihl - Aug 14, 2009 12:59 am Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2009

Hike to base of wall

Hiked to base of wall with Marcus Torres, will be back for climbing!


slkrr - May 12, 2009 10:36 pm Date Climbed: Apr 25, 2009

awesome  Sucess!

Climbed the Costão route from the back side - this is considered the easiest and it has one short section of IIIsup climbing (don't know what that is in YDS). The rest of the climb was steep with many 45-degree rock slopes which would be very treacherous if wet. A really great climb and the best part is that you can take the cable car back down!


supermarmot - Aug 19, 2008 9:48 pm Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2008

smoggy  Sucess!

so the view was only amazing instead of incredibly amazing :-)

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