Warbonnet Peak

Page Type
Trip Report
Idaho, United States, North America
Date Climbed/Hiked:
Sep 16, 2000
Trad Climbing
Summer, Fall
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71.06% Score
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Warbonnet Peak
Created On: Jan 2, 2006
Last Edited On: Sep 29, 2009
Alan, John, and Doug and myself took the Redfish Lake shuttle boat across the lake. The shuttle is one of those necessary evils- they charge a lot of money for the 10 minute ride, but you're always willing to pay for it to save the 10 miles (roundtrip). We made our way up Redfish Creek, past Alpine Lake and left the trail before Baron Pass. We scrambled on the north side of Point 9769 and made a rough traverse across and down into the upper Goat Creek drainage passing Warbonnet Lake and Feather Lake. The going off trail is a bit tough with large packs and the loose scree. We made a base camp at Bead Lake with amazing views of the Monte Verita Ridge, Blue Rock Dome, PackRat Peak, and The Mayan Temple. There is a ton of climbing and potential climbing in this basin. The sunset on these sheer masses of rocks was amazing.


It rained briefly the first night and became windy, but by sunrise it was clear. We scrambled up to the saddle on the southeast side of Warbonnet. The 5.7 route consisted of 7 pitches of climbing that meandered around a bit, going behind huge rocks and up onto the SW Ridge route. The climb ends with a seriously exposed, but easy pitch onto the overhanging summit fin (one by one, we each went out onto the summit). Looking over the edge was great, nothing underneath for perhaps a thousand feet. The rappel down is straightforward and we hiked out the next day. I found evidence of Native American occupancy near Bead Lake (lithic debitage). I thought about the names of the lakes in the area: Warbonnet, Bead, and Feather. It made sense that there might have been Native Americans hunting and camping around here. Early explorers would have seen this also, and the names may have derived from what they found.
The 5th pitch on Warbonnet

Warbonnet From Baron

Warbonnet Climbing Topo


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Warbonnet Peak

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