Pala del Bo 2125 m
Masenade and Cantoni del Duran Subgroup is the SE uttermost sector of Moiazza Group, this latter sometimes regarded as a sector of the adjacent Civetta, actually an autonomous group, located between Val di Zoldo and Vallata Agordina, in the Eastern Dolomites. This fine subgroup is located near Passo Duran m. 1605, a col connecting Forno di Zoldo and Agordo, in a fine position between San Sebastiano - Tamer Group to the South and Masenade - Cantoni del Duran subgroup to the North. This latter counts a wide number of rocky towers, needles and walls, built in a very good grey and yellow “dolomia”, just a paradise for the climbers, overlooking Passo Duran. Pala del Bo is one of these walls, a rocky summit located in the lower sector of the Masenade, in the Easternmost area, on the right of the most imposing Pala del Belia.
On the triangular South wall of Pala del Bo we find some nice routes suitable also for off season (late Spring or early Autumn). The often attended Via Decima-Cimpellin, described in the next chapters, is a classic style good route, pleasant and not too demanding, quite advisable to get acquainted with the Dolomites' climbing way.
The starting point to climb is Passo Duran m. 1605. The nearest town is Belluno. From Belluno there are two possibilities to reach Passo Duran:
A. Via Val di Zoldo - From Belluno take the road 50 to Ponte nell’Alpi, then the road 51 getting to Longarone; in Longarone turn to left, following the road 251 to Forno di Zoldo m. 810. Passed Forno di Zoldo the road forks; turn to left taking the road 347 rising steeply to Passo Duran m. 1605 (40 km from Belluno)
B. Via Vallata Agordina - From Belluno take the road 203 to Mas, entering the Canale d’Agordo valley and reaching Agordo. Some hundred meters before the town, turn to right and take the road 347 rising to Passo Duran m. 1605 (32 km. from Belluno).
Via Decima-Cimpellin report - UIAA scale
Difficulty: AD+, IV+ max
Length: 240 m.
First ascent: G. Decima, P. Cimpellin, august 1950
A fun pleasant climb with good rock in a fine setting. Quick approach and favorable exposure. The in-place protections are very limited anyhow the route is advisable for a first taste of climbing in Moiazza group.
Approach - From Passo Duran take the path n. 549 that rises initially along the meadows until it joins a gravel road (Alta Via n. 1) leading to Rifugio Carestiato. Shortly before reaching the hut the Pala del Bo is just well visible on the right, showing a triangular wall above a steep slope. In the leftmost point of the triangular wall under an obvious rock gully it starts the climb. Leave the gravel road without reach the hut and take on the right the scree rising to the base of the wall.
Approach from Rifugio Carestiato - From the hut take the dive immediately above, following the directions to Via Ferrata Costantini. Soon , leave the signpost to the ferrata and take on the right a trail that passes under the vertical walls of Pala del Belia, climb up a white gully (possible snow-tongue in early season) and immediately after reachs the base of the wall.
The starting point of the climb is situated on the left end of the wall, below an obvious gully.
L1 - Climb the slabs on the right of the gully, III, 35 m.
L2 - Up again on the right of the gully getting the base of a short overhang, III, 40 m
L3 - Overcome the overhang on the most convenient point (IV), then obliquely to the right leave the gully and follow the sloping rock getting a comfortable stance. Belay on a pine, IV, 35 m.
L4 - Oblique right to get the bottom of an obvious narrow chimney and belay below the chimney (belay not equipped), I, 20 m.
L5 - Climb the chimney, at first directly, then when the chimney is getting larger climb the right face and exit left on a narrow terrace, IV, IV+, 35 m.
L6 - Climb the light grey slabs above, getting a terrace with dwarf-pines and a big boulder at the start of a narrow frame, IV, 35 m.
L7 - Navigate right along the beautiful and aerial frame reaching the base of an obvious chimney-crack, III, 15 m.
P8 - Climb the fine chimney-crack on excellent rock, getting a yellow niche, here oblique right to keep another shorter chimney exiting to the summit, IV+, 45 m
Descent - From the top follow rightward (East) the slopes crossing Pala del Bo on the opposite side, at first grassy then on debris (tracks and cairns). Once getting the base of the wall, head definitely to the right and skirt the base of the wall to return at the starting point of the climb.
Ropes 2 x 55, helmet, some quickdraws, slings and a set of nuts
No permit no fees required.
Best period goes from early June to middle October
Passo Duran m. 1605 is the starting point to climb the routes located in the Masenade-Cantoni del Duran subgroup. There are two accommodations on the col:
Rifugio Cesare Tomè
C.A.I. 30 places Guardian: Soro Dorotei Phone: +39043765199 Guardian: Fam. Diego Favero
Rifugio San Sebastiano,
private, 30 places, always open, located just on the pass. Phone: +39043762360
Rifugio Bruto Carestiato m. 1834 C.A.I. 50 places, located at 40 minutes by walking from Passo Duran Phone: +39043762949
“IV grado in Dolomiti – Vol. II” by Emiliano Zorzi, Idea Montagna edizioni, 2010
“IV grado e più – Dolomiti Orientali” by Emiliano Zorzi – Luca Brigo – Carlo Piovan, Idea Montagna Edizioni, 2012
“Moiazza – Roccia tra luce e mistero” 163 itinerari in Moiazza by Stefano Santomaso, Idea Montagna 2011
“Arrampicate scelte sul versante meridionale della Moiazza” by Soro Dorotei, 1994
"Civetta - Moiazza” – V. Dal Bianco – G. Angelini Tamari Editori in Bologna, first edition 1970, last edition 1984 (Last update in 1970)
Kompass 1:50000 n. 77
Tabacco 1:25000 n. 15