Chad has it correct. The key is to stay on the ridge as long as possible. We had route finding issues (and same scary moments with rock coming loose) by starting too early. On the return, found a green lichen open book with great holds that led to a large cairn at the end of the ridge. Pictures
One of my favorite climbs. Loved the scenery and routefinding. Staying up on top of the ridge as long as possible is definitely the way to go, easier and more exciting. I wish I could experience the ramp over and over!
Via NW ridge.....knife edge was exhilarating and only route finding problems was dropping down to the notch which was figured out on the way back...stay on knife edge!! 4th class ramp is one-of-a-kind sierra feature!
Daytrip as an alternate for the 2009 Sierra Challenge. After some unnecessary hairiness on the ridge, the final slab seemed tame. A great climb from Scimitar Pass, but it really tests your nerves.
This is such a great climb! It was worth the second trip. I climbed this peak with Ron Karpel and Aaron Schuman.
As part of a group of PCS climbers, 4 of us turned around at 2 pm before descending into the notch below the summit while 2 others continued. While the four of us enjoyed a night in camp the other two summited at 4 pm but had to bivy at Scimitar pass and returned to camp in the morning.
Tricky route finding. We hand traversed to the left when getting down to the notch. Find a better way on the right on the way back.
My buddy Demetri and I make it up and down in about 13 hours car-to-car. I was dragging on the way to the crest but it was thoroughly enjoyable climbing from there to the summit of Gandalf.
one of the sketchy ridges to date.. it felt like climbing in a house of cards.. ran out
of time to tag the highest point.. will definately go
back.. found a 5 gallon cache from the 70's i
suspect... the 3 musketeers wraps were white ...i
believe they havent been white since the 70's..
climbed with alex...
The talus above Elinore Lake was tedious, but the scrambling along the NW Ridge was exciting... seriously exposed, and the rock was loose enough in places to make extreme caution advised. I pulled a couple of holds out, as did Michael. The ostensibly class 3 traverse into the notch (IMO, more like class 4) actually turned out to be more difficult than the slab, which I was pleasantly surprised to find was much easier than I'd expected (no friction climbing required!) Still, I was glad I brought my rock shoes.
Day seven of the 2004 Sierra Challenge, ten of us started out from Glacier Lodge, summited with Michael and Matthew, then tagged Jepson with Mark. Trip Report