One of the best nailing routes left at smith. First ascended in January of 1981 by Jim Anglin and Mike Hartley. A few retro bolts have lowerd the rating a bit eliminating the original crux. Originaly done as 2 long pitches up the head wall, there are now 2 added belays. Still requires solid skill in piton craft.
When coming from astrix pass and heading toward the Mesa Verde Wall hike up passed In Harms Way/Out of Harms Way to the base of the 4th class ledges below the steep wall. Begin a little right of the crack system. This route is the obvious crack system spltting the steep clean part of the wall.
P1 - 4th class - Traverse up the ledges to a nice 2 bolt belay.
P2 - 5.6 A2+ - Free climb up from the anchor untill resorting to aid in the crack system, clean aid untill you need to nail. The first belay is a retro bolt, clip this and continue on into the akward open book. Belay below the roof at the end of the open book. 3 bolt belay.
P3 - A2+ - Pass the roof on a fixed KB then head up the headwall crack. Pass some hangerless bolts and a belay. Easy free through a killer top out leads to a juniper tree belay. Only 1 bolt on this pitch is original.
Cams to 1.5 x 2 (offsets useful)
Nuts x 2 (offsets useful)
4 LAs (short thick)
6 angles 2 ea #1-3
6 sawed angles asst.
rivet hangers and tie offs
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