Palo Verde

Page Type
Route
Location:
Oregon, United States, North America
Route Type:
Trad Climbing
Time Required:
Half a day
Difficulty:
A2+
Rock Difficulty:
5.6 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:
3
Grade:
II

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Palo Verde
Created On: Mar 17, 2007
Last Edited On: Mar 17, 2007

Overview

One of the best nailing routes left at smith. First ascended in January of 1981 by Jim Anglin and Mike Hartley. A few retro bolts have lowerd the rating a bit eliminating the original crux. Originaly done as 2 long pitches up the head wall, there are now 2 added belays. Still requires solid skill in piton craft.

Getting There

When coming from astrix pass and heading toward the Mesa Verde Wall hike up passed In Harms Way/Out of Harms Way to the base of the 4th class ledges below the steep wall. Begin a little right of the crack system. This route is the obvious crack system spltting the steep clean part of the wall.

Route Description

P1 - 4th class - Traverse up the ledges to a nice 2 bolt belay.

P2 - 5.6 A2+ - Free climb up from the anchor untill resorting to aid in the crack system, clean aid untill you need to nail. The first belay is a retro bolt, clip this and continue on into the akward open book. Belay below the roof at the end of the open book. 3 bolt belay.

P3 - A2+ - Pass the roof on a fixed KB then head up the headwall crack. Pass some hangerless bolts and a belay. Easy free through a killer top out leads to a juniper tree belay. Only 1 bolt on this pitch is original.

Essential Gear

Cams to 1.5 x 2 (offsets useful)
Nuts x 2 (offsets useful)
2 beaks
1 KB
4 LAs (short thick)
6 angles 2 ea #1-3
6 sawed angles asst.
rivet hangers and tie offs

External Links

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Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

Viewing: 1-1 of 1

mikeehartley - Feb 24, 2009 12:47 pm - Hasn't voted

Original route

No bolts were used on the 1st ascent.

Viewing: 1-1 of 1









Palo Verde

Route
2 Images 0 Climber's Log Entries 2 Comments 1 Additions & Corrections

Geography

MyTopo Map Nearby Routes Interactive Map Routes in Oregon

Parents

Smith: Mesa Verde WallRoutes