Paragon Peak's East Ridge, II 5.4

Page Type
Canada, North America
Route Type:
Time Required:
Most of a day
Rock Difficulty:
5.5 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Paragon Peak's  East Ridge, II 5.4
Created On: Aug 2, 2008
Last Edited On: Aug 10, 2008


An excellent quartzite ridge climb, and an introduction to the alpine rock climbing in the Tonquin Valley. Although listed as a Grade I scramble in the "Selected Alpine Climbs of the Canadian Rockies", it is a much longer route similar in nature and difficulty to the East Ridge on Edith Cavell.

The positions on the ridge are airy, the views are world class, and you will have the place to yourself, since the peak averages 1 ascent per year. It also provides you with an excellent view of the Greenwood-Beckey-Gordon route on Oubliette.

First Ascent by A. Carpe and H. Palmer, August 1919

Getting There

From the Wates-Gibson hut, follow trails NW and drop down to the creek valley coming from Parapet. Follow route in photo.

Route Description

Gain the moraine and then scramble up towards the ridge-crest aiming to be climbers right of the Gendarmes (G in photo).

Follow ridge until possible to drop down right (north) onto a small glacier overlooking Amethyst Lakes. This will save you time as you will not have to climb through blocky gendarmes. Follow snow patches until reaching quartzite ridge at about 2600m.

Most difficulties are at the bottom, two rock steps (labeled 1 and 2), each under 20m high must be surmounted (5.4-5.6 depending on the way you choose). You will need to rapell these on the return (look for boulders with slings). From here, follow fun quartzite to the summit.

Allow 4-6 hours up to summit and slightly less back down the way you came up.
East Ridge Route

Essential Gear

Small alpine rock rack, (small cams up to #1 black diamond) 40 m rope will do, some pins/slings for retreat and rapell.

External Links

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Paragon Peak's East Ridge, II 5.4

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