Parete Bianca/Weisswandspitze

Parete Bianca/Weisswandspitze

Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 46.98396°N / 11.30121°E
Additional Information County: Trentino Alto-Adige
Seasons Season: Summer
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Overview

 

Parete Bianca/Weisswandspitze 3016 m

 

In the upper Valle Isarco, near the Brennero pass, there are two mountains that irresistibly attract the mountaineer's eye because of their particularity: the imposing dolomite wall of the Tribulaun of Fleres and to its left a peak that on a steep base of dark rocks, rises up a triangular wall of white rock, almost a cap of snow: the Parete Bianca/Weisswandspitze 3016 m. As all the mountains belonging to the region South Tyrol/Alto Adige, located near the boundaries between Italy and Austria, this peak has two names: Parete Bianca, the italian name, and Weisswandspitze, the original tyrolese place-name.The mountain is situated inside the  Eastern Breonie Alps (Stubaier Alpen according to the Tyrolean nomenclature) on the boundary ridge between Italy, Alto Adige province on the Southern side and Austria, Tyrol on the Northern side. 

The special appearance of Parete Bianca/Weisswandspitze
The special appearance of Parete Bianca/Weisswandspitze
Parete Bianca/Weisswandspitze seen from the route
Parete Bianca/Weisswandspitze seen from the route

 

The small group of the Tribulaun of Fleres located to the East counts a handful of high peaks which, unlike the others, consist of dolomite rock. It was just here at the base of the Tribulaun di Fleres that the French geologist Déodat de Dolomieu discovered this kind of rock, called "dolomia" in his honor. Later the name "Dolomites" was attributed to all the mountain groups constituted by this type of rock located to the south-east of the Tribulaun group, which curiously is not part of the Dolomites. 

Shadow of the majestic Tribulaun reflected on the lake
The majestic Tribulaun reflected on the Sanes Lake

The Parete Bianca, fascinating with its curious structure and clearly visible from the valley floor, is climbed by means of a fine crossing route that connects two huts, the Rifugio Calciati / Tribulaunhütte and the Rifugio Cremona / Magdeburger Hütte. The itinerary can be indifferently done in both directions; here it will be described the route starting from the Rifugio Calciati. Just in the stretch where it occurs the change between the two different types of rock of the Parete Bianca wall, black below and white above, it runs along the entire wall a large gravel ledge, exposed, but not difficult, which can become delicate in the presence of snow or ice. It is the passage that allows you to do the crossing between the two sides of the mountain. Just after tackling this stretch, a short detour along the Southern ridge of the peak leads to the beautiful summit. 

Getting There

The starting point to climb the Parete Bianca is the Val di Fleres/Pflerschtal. 

Val di Fleres (Pflerschtal)
Val di Fleres (Pflerschtal)

 

Road access

From the A22 Brennero motorway, exit Vipiteno, continue on the SS12 state road towards Brennero up to Colle Isarco/Gossensass 1110 m, town located 3 kilometers North to Vipiteno/Sterzing. At the entrance of the town, immediately after the second tunnel on the left, leave the state road and turn to left entering the Val de Fleres, the last valley before the Brennero Pass. Continue to Sant'Antonio-Fleres di Dentro, 1245 m. From here following the signpost to Sasso/Stein, take the road to the left towards Sasso / Stein,  cross a first bridge and contine up to a large parking lot. From here continue on a dirt road and park about 1,5 km further on another higher parking with regulated access (ban from 10 to 16). 

Public bus service from Vipiteno to Sant'Antonio in Flerés - St. Anton in Pflersch is available.

Parete Bianca/Weisswandspitze crossing from Rif. Calciati

Parete Bianca/Weisswandspitze crossing from Rifugio Calciati

Summit: 3016 m
Difficulty: Alpine F
Difference in level: 650 from Rifugio Calciati - 1600 m from the parking lot  
Starting point: Rifugio Calciati

From the last parking lot near the waterfall "in der Hölle" 1465 m take the path n. 6 to Rifugio Cremona, descend slightly to the right to cross the wooden bridge over the stream Fleres and up on the opposite side in the woods until a signposted fork. Ignore the path n. 6 which proceeds to the left to the Ref. Cremona and continue to the right in the beautiful forest following the path n. 8. Continue along the path with numerous hairpins until you exit the woods or alternatively it's possible to take a very steep variant on the right which quickly gains altitude along a grassy ridge and joins higher up the main path. Once out of the woods, you continue to climb uphill past the avalanche protection on the steep slope. 

The approach to Ref. Calciati ( Tribulaunhütte)
The approach to Ref. Calciati ( Tribulaunhutte)
Blooming of Eriophorum Scheuchzeri near Sanes Lake
Blooming of Eriophorum Scheuchzeri near Sanes Lake

You arrive at a beautiful waterfall and continue uphill until you reach a paoramic clearing with a Crucifix.The path continues to the left dominated by the spectacular and majestic wall of the Tribulaun of Fleres. We proceed uphill along the well-marked path, until we reach almost the base of the Tribulaun .From this point you continue past a fork with almost level path for about 15 minutes until you reach the Rifugio Calciati 2369 (3 hours) in a magnificent location just under the majestic Tribulaun wall and on the shores of Lake Sanes.

The Tribulaun di Fleres seen from Refuge Calciati
The Tribulaun di Fleres seen from Refuge Calciati
Starting the itinerary from Ref. Calciati
Starting the itinerary from Ref. Calciati

From the Rifugio Calciati take the path that connects the hut to the Rifugio Cremona (n. 7). Near the lake begins to rise up  towards the border ridge which is reached at the altitude of 2753 m, at first slightly uphill then along some steeper grassy slopes and large boulders. The trail runs along the ridge almost to the summit of the Dente Alto/Hoher Zahn 2925 m.  Follow the ridge with incomparable views, then descend to a fork bounded by the eastern wall of the Parete Bianca.  Climb up to the base of a pinnacle, then descend a bit and finally climb the last wall that reaches the beginning of the aerial horizontal rocky ledge cutting the wall just along the line of contact between the lower black schists (metamorphic rock) and the with dolomia above at 2870 m. 

Start of the ledge on Parete Bianca/Weisswandspitze
Start of the ledge on Parete Bianca/Weisswandspitze
Parete Bianca/Weisswandspitze, the ledge
Parete Bianca/Weisswandspitze, the ledge

Follow the ledge, exposed but not difficult, turn an edge to get the base of the Southern side of the peak. Near an arrow and a cairn leave the ledge and begins to climb on the right along not difficult rocks, steps and debris (cairns) that in about half an hour lead to the top of the superb peak at 3016 m of altitude. 

Start of the climb to the summit of Parete Bianca
Start of the climb to the summit of Parete Bianca
Scrambling up to the summit of Parete Bianca
Scrambling up to the summit of Parete Bianca

Two crosses and summit book. A breathtaking view of the nearby Tribulaun of Fleres and the surrounding peaks, as well as the Fleres Valley just below us. 

Summit of Parete Bianca   Weisswandspitze
Summit of Parete Bianca Weisswandspitze
Summit of Parete Bianca/Weisswandspitze
Summit of Parete Bianca/Weisswandspitze

 

Reversing the summit rocky stretch gain the ledge again. Once on the ledge continue to the right taking the long path that descends steeply with several hairpins along a grassy and rocky slope to reach the bottom of a valley. Some sections are equipped by a fixed rope.  After a horizontal stretch, the path briefly rises to reach the Rifugio Cremona 2423 m. From the refuge you take the path n. 6 which descends decisively and then crosses to reach the Malga Buoi / Ochsenhutte 1690 m. Always downhill you reach the valley floor and the starting point, where the ring closes.

Red Tape

Val di Fleres map
Val di Fleres map

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

No fees no permits required

Huts

Tribulaun di Fleres and Tribulaunhütte
Tribulaun di Fleres and Tribulaunhütte

- Rifugio Calciati/Tribulaun Hütte 2369 m

Situation: beneath Tribulaun di Fleres, next to the lake of Sanes
Access: from Fleres di Dentro last parking 1465 m 3 hours E
Owner: CAI Vipiteno
Phone: +390472632470
Places: 37
Open: from the 1st of July 1st to September 30th

 

 

 

 

 

Refuge Cremona/Magdeburger Hütte
Refuge Cremona/Magdeburger Hütte

- Rifugio Cremona alla Stua/ Magdeburger-Hutte 2423 m

Situation: Stua lakes in front of the Vedretta del Montarso
Access: from Fleres di Dentro last parking 1465 m 3,30 hours E Owner: CAI Vipiteno
Phone: +390472632472  Mobile: +393401687200
Places: 55
Open: from the end of June to the end of September

Other accomodation

Val di Fleres

When to Climb

The best period goes from July to September

Meteo

Meteo Alto Adige

Guidebooks and maps

Prestigiosi Tremila del Sud Tirolo - Guidebook
Alpi Breonie Stubaier Alpen map

- Prestigiosi 3000 del Sudtirolo - Hans Paul Menara 

- Guida alpinistica e escursionistica dell’Alto Adige Occidentale -  Achille Gadler

- Tabacco Foglio n.038  1:25.000



Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.

Stubaier HauptkammMountains & Rocks