I have been to Calpe to climb Penon several times and I will keep coming back. Each time I slept at one of those beaches with that huge piece of rock towering in the view I couldnt wait to be in the wall. I climbed Polvos Magicos twice, Diedro UBSA, and Anglada-Gallego. I made an attempt in Revelacion but we didnt like the first few pitches at all, took too long and we wouldnt have enough time to finish.
I was planning to climb Diedro UBSA (5+) with five of my friends (three 2 person rope teams, that is). We got to the foot the of the rock at sunrise, but unfortuntely for me the progress of the first two teams was too slow, and my team had to abort the climb. We hiked to the top instead, and my estimate in terms of time turned out to be correct: the second team reached the top with the very last rays of sunlight, and had to descend the path in total darkness. Oh well, there's always next year!
Being a climber, there is no way but climbing the Peñon de Ifach once you have seen it. We climbed it on a sunny afternoon just before Christmas. Topped the Valencianos without problems (although a little bit too slippery to my opinion) and were lucky to see a beautiful sunset, followed by an easy descent under a full moon.
This cliff has it all!
We did this great route on a clear day, during a week-long stay in the area. I think this is the easiest route on the crag, not sure.
Will try to look out some photos.
It was a very nice climb but a little bit dangerous because the rain fell in the middle of climb. The sun shined after that but after tunnel the rock was weddy. It's not advisable the climb with rain but the Peñón de Ifach is a very nice peak.
very wet weather and loud seagulls...looking to return and do the Via Valencianos.
Hiked up to the top. The views are incredible!
Florence and I guided by Roy climbed this nice route, specially interesting in the middle part (Polvos Magicos).
Varis and me entered in the route at 10h00am, already 2 cords above us... after some bottle necks that ralentized our climbing, we finalized this beautiful and varied route at 16h00. Lot of climbers... seagulls... impressive views and emotions !
Multipitch bolted route. Awsome!!!. Since the third pitch the verticality is absolute. There is a 7a pitch, I couldn't do it but it worth it at all!
Great routes !!
Pictures of Peñon de Ifach: [HERE]
We have planned the Diedro USB but where a little late so we climbed the "Via Valencianos" instead. I'll visit the Costa Blanca this spring and alos the Penon de Ifach.