Gully largely dry, any water was almost completely avoidable. We went up slightly left of the saddle, maybe a 5.4 crack for about 40 then slightly right on a ledge 10 more to a belay. Traversed towards the rap anchor then angled up class 3 to another crack which was largely 4th with 10 feet of 5.2. This put us on the wide grass, class 3 to the summit. Seems safer, easier to protect, than the slabs most people seem to use lately. Also climbed Sixteen, class 4 scramble from saddle. Gully from Ruby is atrocious dry. Highest 200 finish.
We had a rainy days in the Ruby Lake Basin and thick fog was covering the peak, so I did not even know what we were climbing!
with Kevin, Renata and John - fun adventure.
Long hike in from Purgatory since the train did not take backpackers due to fire danger - 2018 dry summer, but we experienced tons of rain.
Scary garbage-rock getting down off Turret, much nicer climbing up Fifteen. Trip report.
We had a party of 5 on the summit. I'm guessing that's the biggest group to summit. It was probably too many, but we made it on a great day. One in our group finished the bicentennials on that peak!
The gully to the Peak Fifteen - Peak Sixteen saddle was holding a fair amount of snow and crampons were necessary for the majority of it. I didn't do enough homework on the route before the trip and we ended up taking a more difficult, non-standard route from the top of the gully. We climbed a short pitch directly up from the saddle. The rock was very bad and our trailrunners were still wet from the snow making it very spicy for the leader (not me!). I've only found one reference to this pitch and the author guessed it to be 5.8. We thought it deserved a 5.6 but it was very sketchy. After that it was smooth sailing over scrambling terrain to the summit, one advantage of this more direct route!
Free solo on ascent and descent. 6 hours roundtrip from camp at 11,600' in Ruby Creek.