Great combination of bushwhacking, snow climb and scrambling with 3 other amazing climbers (Joe, Sarah, John). Thanks to the other John (of LOJ) and his wife who we met on the way up for providing some time-saving route information.
I really enjoyed this peak! It was loose in spots, for sure, but the upper ridge was burly and fun! Great cramponing in the snow field between Q and R - why bother with scree and talus when you can walk up on firm morning snow? Great time - with Candace, Joe & John.
Climbed with Craig Burger. We each packed in a 12 pack and had an excellent weekend. Peak Q had a few precarious spots. At one point I dislodged a several hundred pound boulder, but thankfully it was not on the exposed section at the end. You can't beat the Slate Lake drainage.
Lots of fun scrambling on the way up, and was able to avoid most of the loose rock staying on the bedrock on the way up. Did an unnecessary knife section just below the summit, but sticking to the easy route on the way down wasn't more than class 3. The route up from upper slate lake also had minimal bushwhacking and was quite enjoyable, which I wasn't expecting based on the info on this site.
brilliant! gores never fail to deliver
Climbed in a long traverse from J to R. See those peaks summit logs for more detail on those peaks. For Q, this would complete the route I tried last October where we were turned around by a downsloping ledge covered in unconsolidated snow. Unfortunately, that ledge is not much better dry, or at least it wasn't for us. This ledge is a muddy downslope that for us was frozen and had nearly zero purchase for our feet. What allowed us to cross were some okay hands along the base of some cliffs, and some other rocks frozen to the soil. The second half of the ledge was fine though, talus and scree that were a little loose, but allowed for purchase for our feet.
Climbed east face route from Upper Slate Lake. Continued to R, S & T.
love the Gores
Although no summit was achieved, this was a very successful recon trip for a Vail approach to Peak Q. We started at Booth and climbed Peak P then traversed over to Q via the West Ridge which is mainly class 2 with a few short 3rd class moves until the false summit. Here a notch bars easy passage and steep slopes with loose unconsolidated snow below thwarted our attempt to traverse below. I think they would go just fine dry as long as they are not too loose. We returned via a notch between East Partner and Graduation Point and descended to Pitkin Lake and out the Pitkin trail to a car shuttle. I think this would be a viable route dry, but long - about 15 miles and 6500 vertical.
I followed the description for the summit block in the "Colorado Scrambles" book, which sounds harder than what is described here. Hmm... Amazing views, great position, but very loose.
Did you feel my description was lacking in any way? Let me know; I'll consider revising it.
A great mountain. I wish I hadn't gotten sick on the first night of this trip. In any case Kane and Jim provided great company and indeed the incentive to get up this blighter. Jim your help in particular is the reason I did get up this mountain. Thank you. I have admired Q from many vantages and am happy to have made it up it this summer.
If I were to guess on the origin of the name "Prisoner Peak" I would say that it represents the feeling of being captive on this mountain. One is so far in the wilderness, on a mountain accessable only by the most remote drainages of a rather inaccessable range... and the mountain itself with its steep loose gullies and boilerplate cliffs seems as if it could keep you if only conditions turned unfavorable. Perhaps it was my drained state and fevered imagination but this mountain cackled like witch and whispered "come to me...". It is a siren.
Climbed this with Jon and Kane during a three day trip to the area. Above average Gore views up there but sub par Gore climbing do to the looseness and...
Congratulations to the asshole(S) who built cairns every twenty feet up the east face. It takes a special kind of dipshit to hike that far to trash a mountain. :(
you should have kicked over the excessive cairns, we were quite annoyed with them as well
I had been longing for this summit since I first saw it from the summit of West Partner. It's such an impressive mountain.
After a nice drenching, the approach to Upper Slate Lake in the dark was very difficult. The lake was a lot larger than I thought it would be.
Although loose for the Gore Range, finally achieving the summit was very rewarding, especially getting up there with two of my closest climbing buddies Jon Bradford and Jim Haley.