Pedra da Divisa

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Serra da Mantiqueira
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Pedra da Divisa

Page Type:	Mountain/Rock
Lat/Lon:	22.68665°S / 45.74258°W
County:	Sao Bento do Sapucai
Activities:	Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Bouldering
Season:	Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
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Overview

Juizo Final route, 5.12d/7c+, Corujas sector

Pedra da Divisa (Border Rock, translated literally) is a granite mountain that sits on the border of the state of Sao Paulo and the state of Minas Gerais. It is about 7 km from downtown Sao Bento do Sapucai, in the Pinheiros neighborhood, and it is inside the private property of Mr. Dimas.

Its granite cliffs are one of the first sport climbing areas developed in the region, and today it has about half a dozen sectors and some dozens of routes ranging from 5.10b to 5.13a. Except for Corujas sector, most are of techy crimps and holds. Corujas sector, on the other hand, is an overhang sector on and exposed cliff, with large holds that required powerful and sometimes dynamic movements, being a favorite sector of more experienced climbers. The mountain has a few trad lines that are seldom climbed due to them being covered in vegetation and with regular presence of wasps.

WARNING: The entire area is inside private property and arrangements have been made by the local community in order to climb in the area without causing disturbance. This includes not speeding, not hassling the cattle, closing gates, packing all your trash, not screaming or using drugs, not making fires, and not damaging vegetation, among others. Please inform yourself of these rules and respect them. Camping in the area is prohibited. No dogs!

Getting There

Climber on Exo Seven, Corujas sector

Climber on exposed cliffs of Corujas sector
By car
Coming from Sao Paulo or Rio de Janeiro access is by Via Dutra (up to Taubaté), SP-123 (up to 046-SP) and SP-173.
By bus
The carrier Pássaro Marrom has two daily buses that serve the town of Sao Bento do Sapucai, the line is Sao Paulo-Brasopolis (Passaro Marrom). By January 2014 tickets are around R$ 41 (US$ 17) one way.

Reaching the base of the routes

Divisa is 7 km from downtown São Bento do Sapucaí. You need a car to get there. From downtown, just follow the signs to Pinheiros neighborhood. Eventually you will find a dirt road, follow it to the end and soon enough you'll see the huge rock formations of Divisa, and a gate with several signs from Femesp (state climbing federation). Park you car around there, pass the gate and follow the trail until you reach another small gate to your left: pass it in order to reach all sectors but Corujas. In order to reach Corujas, instead of passing this gate, keep walking straight ahead, cross a bushy field to the right and you'll find another trail. Follow it until you reach the base of the routes.

WARNING: Be careful when reaching the exposed areas in the trail that leads to Corujas sector! There are fixed ropes for safety, use them! The base of the routes is very exposed and accidents have happened that resulted in serious injury. You must anchor yourself for belaying climbers in the routes higher up in the sector. There are fixed ropes for that as well, use them!

Routes

Climber on Kalya, Pilar Central sector

Climber on Morcheeba, Tetos Sector

Climber on Panico, Tetos sector

Comunista sector

Corujas sector is the highest cliff seen in the distance

All routes can be rapped off of bolted or "P" anchors. I only listed the most frequented sectors, and its main routes. For updated topos, talking to the local climbers is still the best option.

Tetos Sector

Chão de Giz, 5.11a
Psicose, 5.11a
Hellraiser, 5.10c
Gripe Espanhola, 5.11c
A ocasião faz o ladrão, 5.11a
It's only rock'n'roll but I like it, 5.112
Tufão, 5.11a, needs friends
Ira, 5.10d, bring a complete set of friends
Só as cachorras, 5.11a, bring large sized friends
Morcheeba, 5.12a

Pilar Central Sector

Kaly maya, 5.12b/5.10c
Kalyia, 5.11c
Justiça Infalível, 2 pitches, 5.10d/5.11c
Habeas corpus, 5.12c
Síndrome de abstinência, 5.12a

Comunista Sector

Eutanásia, 5.11a, needs pro
Fator X, 5.12b, needs pro
Quem mandou não estudar, 5.11c
Comunista, 5.12a
Sierra Maestra, 5.12d
Foice e o martelo, 5.12c

Corujas Sector (most routes are safer if you climb with the first protection already clipped)

Granada, 5.11c
TNT, 5.12a
C4, 5.11a
Africa, 5.10d
Vôo da Coruja, 5.12a
Duplex, 5.12c, needs pro
Bazuca, 5.12d
Exo seven, 5.12d
Bomba Atomica, 5.12d, needs pro
Efeito moral, 5.12b
Inercia, 5.13a
Napalm, 5.12d
Tomahawk, 5.12d
Agente Laranja, 5.13a
Faixa de Gaza, 5.12a
Juízo Final, 5.13a

When to Climb

Being part of the Mantiqueira range, it receives a lot of humidity and precipitation during summer season (October through April).

Ideal climbing season is during brazilian winter (May through September), but the area can be climbed year round and some sectors do not get wet if it rains. During the summer, the walls receive shadow after 1 pm.

Where to stay

This is a day use area in a private property, so camping is prohibited.

There are several inns in the town, and a few climber's huts as well.

The most well known is Montanhismus, owned and operated by renowned brazilian big wall climber Eliseu Frechou. There's also a small store in site with discounts, blems and closeout apparel and equipment.

Another option is Nativus, owned by local climber Marcelo Iron who can give info on several routes and crags in the area.