Pedra do Bau, also known as Baú Complex, is an important set of gneissic rocks located in the municipality of São Bento do Sapucaí, state of São Paulo, Brazil. The highest summit is Baú Rock at 1950 meters of altitude and with walls of about 400 meters, famous for hosting some of the most important sport climbing routes and also trad routes. It is formed by Bauzinho, Pedra do Baú and Ana Chata Rock.
Baú Rock was first climbed in 1940 by brothers Joçao and Antonio Teixeira de Sousa, known as Cortez brothers. Two years later, the businessman Luis Dumont Villares sponsored the construction of the first two access roads to the stone (known iron stairs - via ferrata), at the southern side of the mountain, located in São bento de Sapucaí, and on the north side as well. Sometime after it was built the first mountain refuge in Brazil, at the top of the rock, which by the way it no longer exists (you can see only its foundations), vandalized over the years.
The stones that form the complex are visited by a large number of tourists and also for professional and amateur climbers. During the months of May to September the area offers an excellent climate for the practice of rock climbing in a multitude of ways. The access road to Pedra do Bau can be done either via Campos do Jordão as for São Bento de Sapucaí, and all paved the way today, except for the last 5 km of dirt road.
Getting There
By plane
The nearest airport is in Sao Jose dos Campos, 80 kilometers away
By car
Coming from Sao Paulo or Rio de Janeiro accesses is Via Dutra (up to Taubaté), SP-123 (up to 046-SP) and SP-173
By bus
The company Expresso Mantiqueira (http://www.expressomantiqueira.com.br/) has outlets in the cities of Sao Paulo area towards São Bento de Sapucaí
By car
Option
The nearest airport is in Sao Jose dos Campos, 80 kilometers away and you must drive that, coming from Sao Paulo or Rio de Janeiro accesses are Via Dutra (up to Taubaté), SP-123 (up to 046-SP) and SP-173.
Bus info
The company is Expresso Mantiqueira (Phone: 55 + 12 + 3921-3306)
When To Climb
The best season is the driest season, winter, from june to late september.
Even in Brazil, the weather is very cold at this region because the altitude is a little bit high, over 6000 feet, so be carefull manly at night.
Camping
I strongly recommend you to stay at Montanhismus hut, it belongs to one of the most important brazilian rock climbers, Eliseu Frechou, and he is a fun guy, very good person.
Access Montanhismus website for the hut reservation:
http://www.montanhismus.com.br/abrigo.html
Camping at Pedra do Bau is not allowed, be aware.
Climbing images
Climbing the 2-pitch Cresta + Normal.
Finishing up the 5 pitch Peter Pan route.
Climbing the 2-pitch Cresta + Normal.
Baú Rock climbing guide
Since the mountain has over 200 routes to climb, from 15m to 400m, there is a guide to its routes, writen by Eliseu Frechou.
To buy the guide, access:
http://www.emporioaventura.com.br/guia-de-escaladas-pedra-do-bau.html
Weather Forecast
Click over the image to jump to WF website
Legal Issues
To hike/ climb is a dangerous activity and requires proper equipment and clothing, the owner of this page cannot be blamed by injuries caused to anyone who read this page for its info about the mountain, and eventually got hurt by doing so with reckless behaviour or bad weather conditions.
Paulo Roberto Felipe Schmidt – AKA: PAROFES
External Links
My youtube channel: www.youtube.com/parofes - Now with 270+ videos online!
The biggest brazilian website about climbing and mountaineering, for which I'm a columnist: