Peking

Shirley getting it done in the pouring rain on pitch one of Peking - a nice #0.75 Camalot crack in perfect stone. She started in misty weather and 20 feet up it started raining - hard (January 7, 2005).

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jhalz

jhalz - Jan 9, 2006 7:49 pm - Voted 10/10

A lovely Smith Weekend

Peking is such a fun route, I wish it were longer. At the same time this was taken, I was getting rained off of JT's Route on the Phoenix Buttress. I got to the crux then bailed to Bend for some beers and warm food. Sunday was drier, but cold.



Did you guys climb on Sunday as well?

rpc

rpc - Jan 9, 2006 7:56 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: A lovely Smith Weekend

Hi Jason,



Had no idea you were the other "psycho" in the park on Saturday ;)



We got up on Sunday, saw the snow on the ground and went home.



That opening part of Peking is definitely a load of fun! Though I was too much of a wimp to follow Shirley up the route in the rain. She cleaned on rappel :)



thanks for stopping by.



rpc

rpc - Jan 9, 2006 8:02 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: A lovely Smith Weekend

PS how did you like JT's route?

jhalz

jhalz - Jan 10, 2006 12:35 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: A lovely Smith Weekend

JT's Route was my second 5.10b sport climb at Smith, so not a lot to compare it to. It was fairly short, lots of positive holds and rest spots. I didn't think the crux was really all that difficult, once I figured out the sequence. You are probably tall enough to bypass the crux. Went over and climbed Wedding Day (5.10b) after that and enjoyed it a bit more. Pretty hard to climb a very fingertip intensive face climb when it's 38 degrees outside. Now if I could only get my trad to that level...

Martin Cash

Martin Cash - Jan 10, 2006 2:12 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: A lovely Smith Weekend

Sounds fun. That opening move on Wedding Day is pretty stiff for 10b in my opinion. Thankfully you can reach the first bolt with a stickclip.

rpc

rpc - Jan 10, 2006 5:47 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: A lovely Smith Weekend

Some of them face climbing things at Smith are funky! Have not tried either JT's or Wedding Day but this other 10b thing called Phantasmagoria smacked me around few months ago :(

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