Peregrine Traverse Additions and Corrections

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Jibs - Aug 3, 2011 11:42 pm - Voted 8/10

Not accurate guide

Uhh... Do not trust the directions to find the climbers trail on the main page. First off... there is no "yellow surveyor's tape" anymore. Found some orange surveyors tape, assumed that that was the trail. Walked off the road at that point. Then once off the road, after scouting for where the surveyors tape was supposed to lead for about 10 minutes and not finding anymore tags, we decided to go tromping through the forest. It took us an hour and a half to find it. Turns out we were an apron and a gulley below where the route starts. Once making it to the route however, the climbing was phenomenal.
A few problems with the route, lack of bolting in some parts, leading to run outs of 70+ feet, however, those points are 5.0/class 4 which isn't difficult, but definitely adds a mental factor.
It should be noted that the anchors on the last pitch are severely covered over by a tree and about 20 feet away from the top of the pitch, making it hard to access, belaying from the tree is much easier.
Another thing that needs to be added to the page is the descent of the last pitch. Follow the sketchy knife ridge to the end of it and look for some slings with more quality rap hangers just over the edge to the right.Once you get the final rap station, make sure, especially if you are using a 50m rope to: 1. tie a knot in it and 2. rap down about 20 feet and work your way right towards a tree, or else you will be stuck on the side of a cliff with no way down.
Another problem is the start of the last pitch. The guide says belay off a tree, however, there are fresh bolts there with rap hangers. One major problem here is getting to this belay station is highly UNSAFE, and i mean, Severely. I ballzed to it, however one slip in the loose dirt and your going off a fifty foot cliff. I had to set up an anchor for my partner just to climb down over a ledge to get to this sketchy area, and then rope him in for the next 5 feet.
Another thing that should be noted is that the ninth pitch should have some rap hangers or something to get down into the "jungle" unless if you plan on sacking up and doing some ballzy class four 600ft fall awesomeness... Haha it was fun.
Overall, great climb, probably gonna go back and solo this biotch in the next month. Jigga Jigga Yeah....


rpc - Aug 4, 2011 10:54 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Not accurate guide

the info is 7 yrs old so it's outdated. you can have the page & rewrite it (esp since you'll have done it twice after you solo that biotch next month and all). otherwise, i'll get rid of it. let me know jibs

gorton - Feb 27, 2014 3:20 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Not accurate guide

Some corrections for the Acker Rock info as of Dec 2013.
1)Someone had cut out and re-flagged the climber's access trail into the Sun bowl. I'm sure even Mr. Jibs could find his way in now.
2)The most current most complete guide for Acker Rock is "Western Oregon Rock Climbing, Volume 2, Umpqua" 2007, Mountain 'N Air Books. There are currently 20 routes on Acker.
3)Most climbed routes are the Peregrine Traverse (5.6) and Eagle's Dare (5.9).
4) I was invited on Black Magic the other day. The guide rates the second pitch .10c(pitch 1 starts above the dry waterfall)I'm siding towards 5.11a which was my original rating. Would love to get a second opinion from anyone who's climbed it.
5)The Acker Rock Lookout can be rented in the summer between July and October (~$45/night). The stars at night are impressive. When on the Forest you can camp pretty much anywhere that makes sense for free except improved campgrounds (~$10). NW parking passes are not required.

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