Peregrine Traverse Climber's Log

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Jibs - Aug 3, 2011 11:41 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2011

Mister Jibs  Sucess!

Uhh... Do not trust the directions to find the climbers trail on the main page. First off... there is no "yellow surveyor's tape" anymore. Found some orange surveyors tape, assumed that that was the trail. Walked off the road at that point. Then once off the road, after scouting for where the surveyors tape was supposed to lead for about 10 minutes and not finding anymore tags, we decided to go tromping through the forest. It took us an hour and a half to find it. Turns out we were an apron and a gulley below where the route starts. Once making it to the route however, the climbing was phenomenal.
A few problems with the route, lack of bolting in some parts, leading to run outs of 70+ feet, however, those points are 5.0/class 4 which isn't difficult, but definitely adds a mental factor.
It should be noted that the anchors on the last pitch are severely covered over by a tree and about 20 feet away from the top of the pitch, making it hard to access, belaying from the tree is much easier.
Another thing that needs to be added to the page is the descent of the last pitch. Follow the sketchy knife ridge to the end of it and look for some slings with more quality rap hangers just over the edge to the right.Once you get the final rap station, make sure, especially if you are using a 50m rope to: 1. tie a knot in it and 2. rap down about 20 feet and work your way right towards a tree, or else you will be stuck on the side of a cliff with no way down.
Another problem is the start of the last pitch. The guide says belay off a tree, however, there are fresh bolts there with rap hangers. One major problem here is getting to this belay station is highly UNSAFE, and i mean, Severely. I ballzed to it, however one slip in the loose dirt and your going off a fifty foot cliff. I had to set up an anchor for my partner just to climb down over a ledge to get to this sketchy area, and then rope him in for the next 5 feet.
Another thing that should be noted is that the ninth pitch should have some rap hangers or something to get down into the "jungle" unless if you plan on sacking up and doing some ballzy class four 600ft fall awesomeness... Haha it was fun.
Overall, great climb, probably gonna go back and solo this biotch in the next month. Jigga Jigga Yeah....

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