Perrenoud route (Chli Bielenhorn)

Overview

Perrenoud Route (Chli Bielenhorn)

Chli Bielenhorn is the smaller brother of Gross Bielenhorn. Both these granite peaks, separated by a saddle named Untere Bielenlücke and located in the vicinity of Furkapass in Switzerland, belong to the Uri Alps Group. On the fine wall facing South of Chli Bielenhorn it runs a pleasant and very interesting classic route following a logical line of corners in the middle sector of the face; the rock is the well known and excellent Furka granite.

Getting There

Start of the trail

Road access

From Andermatt, a little town at St.Gotthard tunnel northern exit, follow the road to Furkapass (m.2429), reaching Hospental and Realp. 2,5 km. after the small settlement of Tiefenbach along the route to Furka Pass, in a pull-out near a little river before the road is turning left (m. 2279).

Walking access to the route

From the pull out along the Furkapass road it starts a good trail leading to the Sidelen Hut. If you want to reach directly the wall without pass through the refuge, at a terrace after half an hour of walking, leave the main trail to the hut on the left-hand side and rise along a steep trail heading toward the obvious wall, crossing the Nepali Highway Trail. Follow it for a few meters, then rise along a steep blocks’ slope, leading to the bottom of the wall. (1 hour from the pull-out).

Route Description

Perrenoud route (Chli Bielenhorn) - French scale

Summit altitude: m. 2940
Difficulty: TD, F6a+ (or F6a with one A0 move)
Climbing length: 220 m.
Exposure: S
First ascent: Perrenoud – Mouttet 1957
Starting point (direct approach): 2,5 km. after the small settlement of Tiefenbach along the route to Furka Pass, in a pull-out near a little river before the road is turning left (m. 2279)
Hut: Sidelen Hütte SAC m. 2708, open from middle june to middle october

Perrenoud route report

It’s suitable to climb the route directly from the parking along Furkapass road; alternatively it’s also possible overnight at Sidelen Hütte SAC (Swiss Alpin Club) m. 2708.

From the pull out along the Furkapass road a good trail starts, leading to Sidelen Hut; to rise directly to the wall without reaching the hut, at a terrace after half an hour of walking, leave the main trail to the hut on the left-hand side and rise along a steep trail heading toward the obvious wall, crossing the Nepali Highway Trail. Follow it for a few meters, then rise along a steep blocks’ slope, leading to the bottom of the wall. (1 hour from the pull-out). The route starting point is situated below a chimney near an obvious spur. The route is equipped, but it's necessary to integrate the equipment with some friends and nuts.

 

L1 - Climb a chimney reaching a good stance out the chimney. F4c, 25 m.
L2 - Climb a corner. F5a, 25 m.
L3 - Another corner. F5b, 25 m

L4 - Another pitch leading to a stance below an overhanging flake. F5b, 27 m

L5 - Climb the flake, then a little smooth overhang (crux). F6a+, A0, 28 m
L6 - From the stance climb directly, then traverse left reaching a stance over a ledge. F6a, 30 m
L7 – Climb a smooth slab over the stance, then traverse right reaching a large corner. Up along the corner with hard and beautiful climb. An ending crack leads to the stance.
L8 - A last corner and easier rocks lead to the last belay. Scramble on to the summit.

 

Sidelen Hütte

Sidelen Hütte 2708 m - S.A.C., open from middle June to middle October

Red tape

No particulary restrictions in climbing and hiking. Free camping is not allowed.

When to climb

Best season goes from middle June to the end of September.

Meteo

METEO SWITZERLAND

Guidebooks and maps

 

 

"Schweiz Plaisir Ost" by Jurg von Kanel, Ed. Filidor