This page was deleted by a former SP member, rescued by Andy and put for adoption ...
I have climbed the Contamine Route on the West Face years ago and therefore being asked to adopt the page ...
Therefore I took over the responsibiliy and adopted the page in November 2004
Mighty mountain on the main ridge dividing the Glacier de Leschaux (France) and the Glacier de Freboudze (Italy)
Its scructure is quite simple : 3 wall on the italian side and 2 walls on the french one.
On its walls and ridges some very important alpinistic routes.
Two different approaches :
from Italy - Val Ferret
- Bivacco Gervasutti (2870m)
to get it you must start walking from Lavachey, cross the Dora river, get the Freboudze
and follow a small track that leads you to the Bivacco di Freboudze (2360M) - 2 hours - passages of 2° UIAA (PD)
Then along tracks toward NW get the Freboudze glacier.
Cross under the eastern part of it (danger of ice falls) and pass to the left of a rocky ridge coming down.
Here you must find the best way to reach the rocky isle of the Bivacco (less than 2 hours from Bivacco di Freboudze)
from France - Chamonix-Montenvers
- Refuge de Leschaux (2450m)
along the tracks on the Mer de Glace (same as for Rif. du Requin) till it turns to right.
Now you have to cross it (red marks) till the lateral moraine to get the Glacier de Leschaux.
Cross the medial moraine and follow directly on the glacier.
The Refuge is on the east margin.
(3 hours from Montenvers)
from Italian side (Bivacco Gervasutti)
NE ridge from Col des Petites Jorasses - PD
ENE slopes - PD - good in early season but can be dangerous for summit corniche fall
Bonatti-Mazeaud - 500 m - ED + aided climbing
Castelli.-Rivero - 500m - TD sup
Mayer-Dibona - AD - danger of falling stones - used for coming down
Gasparotto-Edwards - D - almost forgotten
Boccalatte-Piolti - AD (?) - forgotten
coming down normal route
SE side of the SW ridge - rappels with existing anchors
from French side (Refuge de Leschaux)
Contamine-Bron-Labrunie - 700 m - TD
Charlet-Migot - 700 m - mixed rock and ice
West wall pics
When To Climb
July - August ... you have to find clean rocks for all the routes