Alpamayo - Ferrari route

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Alpamayo - Ferrari route

by gibbonpower » Sat Jan 24, 2009 3:21 pm

I wonder if someone have climbed Alpamayo Ferrari route the last seasons ?
I searching for news and info about the conditions on the route compare to the guidebooks. I have heard from last year that the serac at the top looks very dangerous and the top ridge to the summit is realy difficult (like TD) ? I meet a lot of climber the last early season and everybody had choosen French direct.
Do anyone know how many who climb the route at an season for a approximately ?

Would be very grateful for someones info and help.

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by TYeary » Sat Jan 24, 2009 4:55 pm

I was in the Blanca from mid June through the end of July last summer. Few if any were climbing the Ferrari. The French Direct absorbed most of the traffic. Several guide companys have stopped climbing the Ferrari for the reasons you mentioned. The French Direct is a bit steeper, a bit more difficult, but, seemingly safer in terms of objective dangers. You might ask some of the guide companys who work in the Blanca, or inquire at the Casa de Guias, Parque Ginebra 28-G, Huaraz. Phone 42-1811. Or try Zarela Zamora at Casa de Zarela. She is very helpful and can give you good beta. E-mail her at
You know its a crap shoot from season to season on conditions, especially for a tropical range in the throws of global warming. Hope this is helpful.
Last edited by TYeary on Sun Jan 25, 2009 5:23 am, edited 2 times in total.

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by m_dquist » Sat Jan 24, 2009 10:07 pm

I attempted the French Direct in July of '08. The Ferrari did not look to be worth it with the giant hanger over the route. You can see a picture of it here:

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