Ayoloco glacier, Mexico?

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alpie

 
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Ayoloco glacier, Mexico?

by alpie » Mon Jan 04, 2016 11:30 pm

Is their a reliable water source near the Ayoloco hut?
Is the hut in halfway decent shape for sleeping in?
We'll need crampons, not just microspices, yes?
Can we rent a stove in Amecameca?

We're 6 people going down next week to climb Ixta by this route, and descend the normal route.
Thanks in advance!!

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seano

 
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Re: Ayoloco glacier, Mexico?

by seano » Tue Jan 05, 2016 1:39 am

For what it's worth, the Ayoloco Glacier looked like this last week. I can't imagine the route being all that pleasant, as it looked from the standard route like mostly untracked volcanic moraine.

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DukeJH

 
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Re: Ayoloco glacier, Mexico?

by DukeJH » Tue Jan 05, 2016 6:54 pm

I agree with seano. When we were there in 2009, we had planned to climb Ayoloco glacier but redirected to Las Rodillas after seeing the poor condition of the glacier.

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ricardo.chapa1

 
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Re: Ayoloco glacier, Mexico?

by ricardo.chapa1 » Tue Jan 05, 2016 9:04 pm

I just went 2 days ago and did the Ayoloco route.
There is a water source that is out of the route and i would personally not rely on it cause it can get frozen.

The hut is in excellent shape, clean and there is space for 6-8 persons. As the route is not so popular because of conditions almost for sure you will find space.

As the glacier is mainly of old and black ice it is pretty hard crampons and ice axe are required, or even ice tools if you are going through the right and most steep side of the glacier. Definitely very good experience with crampons and tools required with this conditions, it is much better in rainy summer season.

I think right now its not a good time to do this route as it is very unstable and the ice is of poor conditions. As Seano said it is not a pleasant route right now.

you cand find stoves in Amecameca or in Mexico city.
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Ayoloco glacier 3/jan/2016
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alpie

 
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Re: Ayoloco glacier, Mexico?

by alpie » Wed Jan 06, 2016 1:08 am

Thank you all for this fantastic information! And a beautiful photograph :-)

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alpie

 
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Re: Ayoloco glacier, Mexico?

by alpie » Sat Jan 16, 2016 4:16 am

Update-a big snow storm took place over the last few days and snow coverage above 15k is good right now. Below 15k', melting quickly and a bit muddy. Beautiful day today. Road is now open to La Joya.


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