Beginner mountaineering in Washington

Regional discussion and conditions reports for Washington and Oregon. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Pacific Northwest Climbing Partners section.
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Beginner mountaineering in Washington

by Nwinters72 » Mon May 13, 2019 6:54 pm

I'm looking to see some glaciers in the north cascades i do a little bit of scrambling here and there. I'm summiting Eldorado peak this summer and looking to find another peak with glaciers and doable under class 3.

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Re: Beginner mountaineering in Washington

by ExcitableBoy » Tue May 14, 2019 8:18 pm

Eldorado is surrounded by some of the largest glaciers in the park, so that is a good first choice. Cascade River Valley is one of the most spectacular and accessible spots in the North Cascades, but much of the climbing is of a technical nature, so I would recommend driving a bit and seeing another area of the park.

Mt Ruth-Icy Peak traverse. Definitely glaciers, not under class three (one pitch of mid 5th on Icy), but you can skip the final pitch to the summit block of Icy and just enjoy the scenery, which includes the Price Glacier and Nooksack Cirque of Mt. Shuksan.

Mt. Shuksan. You shouldn't miss Shuksan, really one of the gems in the North Cascades crown. You can climb the Sulfide Glacier and find a class 3 route on the summit pyramid.

Mt. Forgotten, also approached via Cascade River Road is another thought. Glaciers, < class 3, long walk.

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Re: Beginner mountaineering in Washington

by seano » Tue May 14, 2019 9:50 pm

It's hard to beat Eldorado for scenic value per (approach + technical difficulty). If you don't mind a long (but easy and very scenic) approach, Glacier Peak from the North Sauk could be an option.

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