Bolting or not bolting?

Minimally moderated forum for climbing related hearsay, misinformation, and lies.
User Avatar
Hotoven

 
Posts: 1864
Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2009 8:06 pm
Thanked: 118 times in 89 posts

Re: Bolting or not bolting?

by Hotoven » Fri Apr 13, 2012 3:17 pm

Its nice your thinking of others and trying to promote the sport, but I would leave the rock as it is.

Climbing is not a cheap hobby and people know that. There's no reason why you should spend your time and money putting bolts up for climbers who can't afford trad gear. If you want to help the climbing community, make a guide book of the new routes and area. This will motivate local climbers to repeat the routes and re think their investment in the sport.
"Hey, careful, man, there's a beverage here!"
- The Dude, Lebowski

The following user would like to thank Hotoven for this post
Bob Sihler, Marcsoltan

no avatar
MattGreene

 
Posts: 85
Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2007 10:33 pm
Thanked: 6 times in 5 posts

Re: Bolting or not bolting?

by MattGreene » Fri Apr 13, 2012 3:42 pm

Like Hotoven said, it's nice you're thinking of others and trying to promote the sport. I'd add that one of the best ways to promote the sport is to preserve all the beautiful trad lines you've FA'd. None of the locals have trad gear now, but what about 10 years from now? 20 years from now? 50 years from now? The locals of the future will be glad you left the routes in their pristine shape.

User Avatar
Andrew Rankine

 
Posts: 135
Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2009 4:11 pm
Thanked: 25 times in 18 posts

Re: Bolting or not bolting?

by Andrew Rankine » Fri Apr 13, 2012 6:41 pm

sjarelkwint wrote:
rankinesoccer wrote:Could you put in fixed pro like stoppers and hexes and have them not be taken? That was people could climb it without damaging rock by bolting.


Thats the same as bolting :wink:


I was just thinking that there would not be permanent holes drilled into the rock with this approach. I'd go for bolting it, but it's up to you in the end.

no avatar
pearson

 
Posts: 26
Joined: Wed Jul 28, 2010 3:01 am
Thanked: 4 times in 2 posts

Re: Bolting or not bolting?

by pearson » Mon Jun 04, 2012 3:17 am


User Avatar
MoapaPk

 
Posts: 7779
Joined: Fri May 13, 2005 7:42 pm
Thanked: 787 times in 519 posts

Re: Bolting or not bolting?

by MoapaPk » Mon Jun 04, 2012 4:09 pm

I'm always curious about the phrase "harm the rock" as applied to bolts. Often climbers break off handholds by mistake (sometimes a fatal mistake); I have personally ridden down on a 300 lb piece that broke off its "secure" position on the other side of a crack. Protection does pull free occasionally, and pulls some of the rock with it.

I'm NOT a bolting fan, but the lingo does seem to carry an unspoken emotional hyperbole. There are places that I visit often that are covered with brightly colored slings, perpetually; often the slings are tied to trees, and are not doing the tree bark any favors. I guess it's OK to harm a tree, but not a rock.
Last edited by MoapaPk on Mon Jun 04, 2012 9:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.

User Avatar
norco17

 
Posts: 847
Joined: Tue Dec 02, 2008 12:53 am
Thanked: 200 times in 135 posts

Re: Bolting or not bolting?

by norco17 » Mon Jun 04, 2012 8:21 pm

People were climbing before we had all this "expensive" climbing gear. Some of the earliest climbers were very inventive with both their gear selection and placements. This in the end made them very good climbers.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mg5LOLsQ ... re=related

Climb the route do not bring it down to your level!

User Avatar
nartreb

 
Posts: 2202
Joined: Sat Apr 03, 2004 10:45 pm
Thanked: 174 times in 146 posts

Re: Bolting or not bolting?

by nartreb » Fri Jun 08, 2012 5:13 pm

There's one thing missing from this discussion: what do the LOCAL climbers think?

My feeling is that the rock is a long-term asset. I'm having a little trouble seeing how the cost of cams makes such a big difference - climbers will have to scrounge up rope, shoes, and 'biners even for a sport route.

Would it make a difference if you could find lines that could be done with (cheaper) passive gear?
Would it be possible to bring in climbers from elsewhere in Europe in a way that's guaranteed to susbsidize the price of gear for local climbers? (Tourists pay for access, locals get cheaper entry plus the tourist money goes to a fund... something like that.)

But it might be a mistake to assume that what Bulgarian climbers need most is cheaper gear. Maybe they;d be willing to borrow money for gear from an uncle, if only they had .... ??

There's climbing in Romania's Cheile Turzii - where there's also lots of bolts (and at least one via ferrata). Might be worth researching the history and results of bolting there - seems like an interesting population to compare in terms of culture and economics.

User Avatar
Andinistaloco

 
Posts: 6331
Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2002 2:32 am
Thanked: 69 times in 43 posts

Re: Bolting or not bolting?

by Andinistaloco » Thu Jun 14, 2012 1:05 am

norco17 wrote:People were climbing before we had all this "expensive" climbing gear. Some of the earliest climbers were very inventive with both their gear selection and placements.


Truth. Some of the folks here have absolutely CRAZY gear for Sedona (a notoriously scary place to climb trad)... like home-welded metal contraptions, chunks of wood, etc.

Previous

Return to Ethics, Spray, and Slander

 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests