Hi guys,

Just want some suggestions on what sort of boots and pack I should be looking for to climbs these mountains.

Usually I just hire my equipment but as I get more into climbing I want to start buying some items.

Not sure if I can use the same gear on Aconcagua as on Elbrus, Ecuadorian Volcanoes and maybe like Mont Blanc.

Looking for a good Pack and boots especially. Please advise.

For boots I'd go with the Spantiks. I've climbed Aconcagua and Denali in Spantiks and my feet were very happy. No blisters, no cold toes. They are comfortable overall. I've also hiked in them in very warm weather and they were fine (although if you can help it, use a different pair). I'll be using them to climb elbrus in a week's time.

Backpack? I don't think this matters a ton. It's probably more about personal preference. For Elbrus and Aconcagua you get help with lifts and mules taking your heavy stuff up to base camps. From there you really don't need to carry a lot on any given day (and will make acclimatization hikes perfect for stashes anyway). You can always return to get stuff that you need pretty easily. Some people need to carry everything with them, I usually go light. I saw people with enormous backpacks on Aconcagua, and people like myself with really small ones. It's a personal preference.

A good one might be the Mountain Hardwear South Col. It seems to be quite popular on all the 7 summit mountains that I've been on.

chickentikka wrote:For boots I'd go with the Spantiks. I've climbed Aconcagua and Denali in Spantiks and my feet were very happy. No blisters, no cold toes. They are comfortable overall. I've also hiked in them in very warm weather and they were fine (although if you can help it, use a different pair). I'll be using them to climb elbrus in a week's time.

Backpack? I don't think this matters a ton. It's probably more about personal preference. For Elbrus and Aconcagua you get help with lifts and mules taking your heavy stuff up to base camps. From there you really don't need to carry a lot on any given day (and will make acclimatization hikes perfect for stashes anyway). You can always return to get stuff that you need pretty easily. Some people need to carry everything with them, I usually go light. I saw people with enormous backpacks on Aconcagua, and people like myself with really small ones. It's a personal preference.

A good one might be the Mountain Hardwear South Col. It seems to be quite popular on all the 7 summit mountains that I've been on.

Thanks for that. With the Spantiks do you have a recommendation on what size you should go compared to your normal shoe size? maybe another size or 2 up? would these boots be fine for all mountains other than the 8000ers?

Try your boots on. End of day, with socks you'll be wearing. In general you shouldn't have to size up much(esp. not 2 sizes). But it depends on the exact boot. I have to size up 1/2 size in Sportivas, regular size in Scarpa. But even that is a general rule, differences between models can be pretty large.
They are built to be warm, if you wear them on lower peaks you'll likely be too hot, heavy, and uncomfortable.
For Mont Blanc and Alps, a single-leather (like Nepal Evo, or Scarpa Mont Blanc) is what you want and will get more usage on other mountains.

If you go for a specialized double boot (Spantik, Baruntse, and the like), they will perform admirably on the high, cold stuff, but be overkill (and uncomfortable overkill at that) for other trips.

For packs, consider a 40L model. If it doesn't fit in there you probably don't REALLY need it. My favorites are the Grivel Freney 40 (better features) and the Mammut Trion Light (light and waterproof). Smaller might limit you on larger trips, and larger is just extra weight to haul.

If you got yourself some Nepal Evos (or similar) and either one of those packs (or similar) you'll be sitting pretty for a TON of quality mountaineering. If you get a larger pack and warmer boots you'll be set for bigger trips but won't use them as much.

Eventually you'll end up with a closet full of specialized gear since one-for-all footwear (in particular) just doesn't cut it.

pvnisher wrote:Try your boots on. End of day, with socks you'll be wearing. In general you shouldn't have to size up much(esp. not 2 sizes). But it depends on the exact boot. I have to size up 1/2 size in Sportivas, regular size in Scarpa. But even that is a general rule, differences between models can be pretty large.
They are built to be warm, if you wear them on lower peaks you'll likely be too hot, heavy, and uncomfortable.
For Mont Blanc and Alps, a single-leather (like Nepal Evo, or Scarpa Mont Blanc) is what you want and will get more usage on other mountains.

If you go for a specialized double boot (Spantik, Baruntse, and the like), they will perform admirably on the high, cold stuff, but be overkill (and uncomfortable overkill at that) for other trips.

For packs, consider a 40L model. If it doesn't fit in there you probably don't REALLY need it. My favorites are the Grivel Freney 40 (better features) and the Mammut Trion Light (light and waterproof). Smaller might limit you on larger trips, and larger is just extra weight to haul.

If you got yourself some Nepal Evos (or similar) and either one of those packs (or similar) you'll be sitting pretty for a TON of quality mountaineering. If you get a larger pack and warmer boots you'll be set for bigger trips but won't use them as much.

Eventually you'll end up with a closet full of specialized gear since one-for-all footwear (in particular) just doesn't cut it.

Thanks pvnisher this is extremely helpful. I will take this on board

Just one question with the Evos, aren't they quite heavy?

Also can you wear the Evos on the approach hike?

I did a bit of research and it seems Elbrus can get pretty cold and the Evos being a leather boot might be a problem? Most guides are suggesting Plastic double boots

drManhattan wrote:

pvnisher wrote:Try your boots on. End of day, with socks you'll be wearing. In general you shouldn't have to size up much(esp. not 2 sizes). But it depends on the exact boot. I have to size up 1/2 size in Sportivas, regular size in Scarpa. But even that is a general rule, differences between models can be pretty large.
They are built to be warm, if you wear them on lower peaks you'll likely be too hot, heavy, and uncomfortable.
For Mont Blanc and Alps, a single-leather (like Nepal Evo, or Scarpa Mont Blanc) is what you want and will get more usage on other mountains.

If you go for a specialized double boot (Spantik, Baruntse, and the like), they will perform admirably on the high, cold stuff, but be overkill (and uncomfortable overkill at that) for other trips.

For packs, consider a 40L model. If it doesn't fit in there you probably don't REALLY need it. My favorites are the Grivel Freney 40 (better features) and the Mammut Trion Light (light and waterproof). Smaller might limit you on larger trips, and larger is just extra weight to haul.

If you got yourself some Nepal Evos (or similar) and either one of those packs (or similar) you'll be sitting pretty for a TON of quality mountaineering. If you get a larger pack and warmer boots you'll be set for bigger trips but won't use them as much.

Eventually you'll end up with a closet full of specialized gear since one-for-all footwear (in particular) just doesn't cut it.

Thanks pvnisher this is extremely helpful. I will take this on board

Just one question with the Evos, aren't they quite heavy?

Also can you wear the Evos on the approach hike?

I did a bit of research and it seems Elbrus can get pretty cold and the Evos being a leather boot might be a problem? Most guides are suggesting Plastic double boots

I've used a single leather in -30 and my feet stayed warm with the right socks. It depends on the individual.....I just run hotter than most. I'll be in a very light base layer only on windy 30 degree days. If your feet get pretty hot, you want less insulation and more breathability. I have a pair of single leather GoreTex Salomon boots and can't do long trips in them due to how hot my feet get in them due to the breathability issues with full leather combined with GTX. Full Leather combined with Gore turns my feet into a sweaty blister fest I have Synthetic upper Salewa Ravens which are also GTX and can do 30-40miles without my feet feeling nearly as bad. You have to try on a lot of boots to get a feel for what will work best.....that and trial and error by putting miles on different boots. With time come experience....but experience takes time.

I can't speak specifically for Elbrus, haven't been there. Many guide services recommend doubles because no one loses toes from having too warm a boot. Also, doubles are much easier to run for a rental service since they don't break in as much and are more like ski boots. They fit a wider range of people. Perhaps ask your guide what s/he will be wearing.
On Rainier, for instance, I've seen loads of clients wearing Scarpa Invernos whilst their guides were Nepal Evos.
But in absence of real detail, go with the company recommendation. You are paying for their expertise, so take their word over some stranger on the internet.

Evos are indeed kinda heavy, but not terrible. I liked how they walk better than their nearest competitor (Scarpa Mont Blanc), the pivot point felt more natural. But it depends on your toe-to-foot length ratio. You can wear them on an approach, I have many times. Try to find a spot to dry them out before the real climb, though, they might get a bit damp.

You might indeed need double boots for Elbrus (I don't know), but my point was more that if you are buying a boot, and you are only buying one pair, then it should be a single insulated leather. You'll get more miles and days out of a Nepal/Mont Blanc than you will out of most any other boot.
You still might need to rent doubles from time to time, and sometimes you may wish for lighter ones. But they are as close to a one-for-all boot as you'll get.

I also have a set of neoprene overboots that I can throw into the mix. I've worn them with my summer boots when it got too cold. And also with my EVOs during the winter. Don't work well unless you're wearing crampons or snowshoes, as they don't have any tread. But that's ok since you only need them when its very cold.
http://www.backpacker.com/gear-zone-gear-review-crescent-moon-over-shoe-booties/gear/15159

Eventually, you'll want trail runners, light hikers, summer mountaineering boots, high alpine, and double boots, not to mention climbing shoes. But one thing at a time.

Hey, if you're a size 43 2/3, I have a nearly new pair of Asolo Eiger GV that might work out for ya!
http://www.geartrade.com/item/329759/asolo-eiger-gv-excellent-condition-300

I climbed Island Peak and Huyana Potosi last year and used Scarpa Vega's each time I believe, and I didn't ever feel my feet being too warm or sweaty so I might lean towards the Spanitks at them moment I think.

Can anyone suggests some sets of gloves?

The following set of gloves (or similar) should get you set for almost any mountain and any conditions that you'll encounter in any season (shy of the really big, really cold ones)

1) thin running glove. I like any of the Powerstretch varieties, I use these probably more than any other glove I own. MHW makes good ones, so do Rab, and many others. They're all pretty much the same.

2) softshell or leather glove. I had been using softshell, but ropes, via ferrata, and rough rock ripped a pair of them to shreds in one trip, so I've converted to all leather. Work gloves generally perform well, but sometimes lack the light insulation or wind resistance on the back that you need. My favorite is the Black Diamond Kingpin. Use Snoseal on them for sure.
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web11s/ms-lg-black-diamond-kingpin

3)A ski-weight glove. I like the Flylow Ridge, or any number of other warmer gloves. If it'd be good for skiing, it'd be good for you.
http://www.backcountry.com/flylow-gear-ridge-glove

4) A warm mitten. I like modular ones (a thin shell, with an insulated liner). I currently have the OR Mt. Baker, but have used a variety of others. The OR Cornice mitt was my favorite for a while. I like the modular construction so I can throw leave the liner at home if its not too cold, but bring the shell and toss it over (whatever pair I'm wearing) for a bit of warmth or waterproofness without hardly any weight. You can also wear your thin running gloves on the inside of your big mitts. It's a bit warmer and you can pull your mitts off to take a photo or something without exposing bare flesh.
MHW and OR make some of the best for the really cold stuff (Alti Mitt and Absolute Zero), but I have yet to come across anything that would require those (but I haven't been to Himalaya or Alaska!).
http://www.outdoorresearch.com/en/or-gear/gloves/mt-baker-modular-mitts.html

Also check out the CAMP Hotmit'n and Drymit'n. If I were to make my purchases over again I might get those instead. http://www.camp-usa.com/products/winter-gloves-hats/hotmitn-2087.asp